A Midsummer Night's Dream - Day 2 - The Last Wonder (Goal 4/17 Complete)

5/30/16, “The Last Wonder” (Goal 4/17 Complete)

Rhodes, Greece

I’m sure my readers have all heard of the “Seven Wonders of the Ancient World”, even if they cannot list all seven or where they are.  The seven are the the Temple of Artemis and the Mausoleum at Halicarnassus in Turkey, the Lighthouse of Alexandria and the Great Pyramid of Giza in Egypt, the Statue of Zeus at Olympia and the Colossus of Rhodes in Greece, and the Hanging Gardens of Babylon.  But, see, the funny thing about those seven wonders, only six of them actually ever existed.  Now, here at Rhodes, I can say that I have visited the sites of all the Wonders of the Ancient World, all six of them.  It is fitting that I finish this quest in the same country I visited the first one 12 years ago.

I visited the ones in Turkey in January 2014 the ones in Egypt in November 2015.  As I grew more and more concerned about the security situation in Iraq and wondered how I would visit Ancient Babylonia, I continued to do my research.  I learned that, more likely than not, the Hanging Gardens were apocryphal.  There was no first-hand account of them ever existing, only two second-hand accounts.  In other words, Herodotus never saw them himself.  There is no archaeological evidence of it having existed.

The Pyramid is still standing, the other five all have archaeological evidence of the exact site.  I even sat (and wrote) among the stones of the two in Turkey, and the stones of the Lighthouse of Alexandria were repurposed to make a citadel of some sort.  Here, this view, those two columns on either side, it’s exactly where the legs of the Colossus of Rhodes once stood.  No such evidence exists for the Hanging Gardens, not to mention the improbability of it having been technologically possible.

Just think about it, a hanging gardens, with flowing water, in the heart of the dessert.  That literally sounds like the stuff of legends.  It is with that conclusion that I edited my checklist from having seven Wonders of the Ancient World, to only having six.  Here, in Rhodes, I can say I have been to all six and check off a 4^th Goal from the list.  Goal 4/17 Complete.  I expect to be able to check off another Goal in Rome, and 3 more in Australia, which will leave 9 remaining for 2017, 5 of which I will wait for my 30^th Birthday trip.  I am entering the home stretch of this quest, and it feels good.  Really good.

After I closed last night, I was soon asleep, waking up, as always, before my alarm went off.  I got ready and headed down for breakfast, which was a respectable spread of hot and cold choices.  I then took a taxi to the airport, an airport that put LaGuardia to shame, as did the efficacy of their security process.  Sorry, I want to go back a bit.  I am watching a boat pass out of the harbor, and I can only imagine what it was like during Hellenic times for a boat, after making a long journey to Rhodes, to see that Colossus in the distance and realize he had arrived at Rhodes, and then to pass under the great Colossus and feel the might that was the city of Rhodes.  It must have been something truly special.

Anyway, I picked up cigars and headed to my gate.  I then inquired about a smoking area.  He pointed to a door that led to a booth.  Perfect.  I had about 45 minutes before boarding would begin, and the smoking booth was in view of the gate.  I figured 45 minutes would be plenty for a quick cigar and then to head to my gate.  The booth reeked.  Even I had trouble tolerating the smell until I had my own cigar lit up.  I opted for a Montecristo, and I enjoyed it until about 9:10 AM.  The flight was at 9:55 AM.  I was starting to feel uneasy, so I soon ditched the cigar.

I went to walk back through that door to my gate, only to be told it was a one-way passage.  Ummm.  I had to loop all the back around through the airport and proceed through security again.  Ummm.  Now, I was in serious danger of missing my flight.  I made it back to the gate just as boarding began, and I was one of the first on the bus to the plane.  As I saw the array of small, twin-engine propeller planes, I remembered why exactly we didn’t go in 2004.  The flight was short, uncomfortable, and unadventurous.

When I got to the airport, I was shocked by two things.  First, I was shocked by the number of international destinations that were serviced, including Stockholm and Hamburg.  The idea of someone taking a direct flight from Stockholm to Rhodes was shocking.  When I got outside, I was shocked by the number of tour bus groups, and I dreaded the worse.  I would later learn that the beaches were a more popular draw for the throngs of tourists than two columns where a Wonder of the Ancient World once stood.  That was fine by me.  I would not be visiting the beach today.

I took a taxi to my hotel, and the check-in was much smoother than yesterday.  The room was small and second-rate, reminding me much of the rooms I have stayed at in various Caribbean capitals, not to mention how cheap the room was.  The location could not be beat, and I had no interest in staying at a beachfront resort.  I napped for a couple of hours and then headed out.  I lit up a Romeo y Julieta, took my ceremonial pictures with the site behind me, and announced, “Goal 4/17 Complete.  All Wonders of the Ancient World”.

In case my readers have not realized now, those 17 goals, and the five years from 2012 to 2017 are the meaning behind the title of my blog.  There were benches in view of the site, so I sat down at one of them, where I proceeded to write this entry, which I will now close so that I can explore the medieval section of Rhodes, which is a WHS, and get some souvenirs and food.

“Valar Morghulis”

The sun is setting over the mountains as viewed from the western coast of Rhodes, just as it is setting on my time here in Rhodes.  It has been an all-around amazing day, and I truly love this little island.  Until today, I never really understood the draw of the Greek Isles.  To me, it was about the cultural heritage, or even just my love of the movie “Mamma Mia!”  I knew about Rhodes, and I know the legends of Crete and other islands.  What about places like Corfu, though?  Well, even before I landed in Rhodes, seeing the section for Corfu in the in-flight magazine changed my mind.  Now, having visited Rhodes, my mind is firmly made up.  The Greek Isles have a tremendous draw, of the level that live up to all the hype, and more.  And I haven’t even set foot on the beach.

After I closed, I went out in search of souvenirs.  It was not long before I found the heart of the tourist jam, with lots and lots of souvenir shops.  I soon found replicas of the Colossus, and I had to stifle my exclamation of joy.  Before we left for Greece in 2004, my father gave me a large Euro banknote.  The value of it is still a lot to me today, so it must have been a fortune to me when I was 16.  He cautioned me not to spend it all at the first souvenir shop I found, instead waiting until I found something really special, and I did.

It was in Olympia, after we saw the site of the Zeus of Olympia, another wonder of the world.  More than anything, I wanted a small bronze replica of the statue, and I found it.  The price was very high, and my mother thought it was overpriced, but that was it, the one souvenir I wanted more than anything else, and it was perfect.  We were halfway through the trip by then, but I still had that banknote.  I told my mother that this was the one special thing that meant so much to me, and that’s what I bought.  It has been displayed prominently in the same spot in the office at my parents’ house for 12 years now, and it has been joined by replicas from the other four Wonder of the Ancient World.  When I am home next weekend, it will be joined by this replica of the Colossus of Rhodes.  It will be a unique display possibly unlike any other in the world.

Behind it are other replicas from that trip, which I’m not sure how I bought.  Perhaps I had some allowance money saved, or my parents gave me a special allowance for the trip, or they approved what they felt were reasonable purchases.  Whatever it was, I filled up an entire suitcase with those replicas, carefully wrapped up in towels from the Athens Plaza, the hotel we stayed at the last night.  I still have those towels, and I will be staying there again tomorrow night.  When I went to Turkey, I added a few more replicas, and I suppose I will add another from this trip.

There is a strict protocol for souvenir shopping like this.  If I want a replica of a site, I start at the souvenir shop closest to the site and keep going to the next ones further away until I have everything I want.  At the first shop, I got some replicas, but not the bronze one I wanted, and gifts for people back home.  The entire total of everything I got, in Euros, was almost exactly the same as I paid for that one replica in 2004.  He individually wrapped each item, so I wrote the name of the recipient on each one as he did it, and then he put each one it its own individual plastic bag.  I got a replica of the medieval Rhodes at another shop, and then I went to the shop that had the bronze replicas.  I got a big one and a medium sized one, along with some keychains and a t-shirt.

I was then starving, and there were a bunch of adjoining outdoor cafes.  I found one that looked nice and asked how long for some souvlaki.  Ten minutes.  Perfect.  My hotel was literally two minutes away, so I placed my order and told him I’d be right back.  I dropped off my bags and got some cigars for part two of the day: medieval Rhodes.  The souvlaki came out a few minutes after I got back, and it was great.  I lit up a Juan Lopez and headed to medieval Rhodes.

I found a Plaque, but it was right next to a menu of all things.  I then walked along the medieval fortifications, and I could hear the theme from Game of Thrones playing in my head.  They had some reenactments going on, and I made my way all the way along the fortifications.  It was time to head back, and I wanted to go to the building, the Palace of the Grand Master, which I figured would serve as the inspiration for the House of Black and White (the temple of the Faceless Men from Game of Thrones).  One of the costumed performers guided me there.

It was exactly what I expected, and as I got there, I said, as I had been saying all afternoon, the famous words: “Valar Morghulis”.  There was also a better Plaque there.  Walking in, I repeated it again, “Valar Morghulis.”  I had finished my cigar by that point, so I spent some time inside before heading back to the hotel, picking up some souvenirs on the way, including a coin to honor the famous iron coin of the Faceless Men.

I took a short nap at the hotel before heading back out for sunrise, lighting up a Cohiba on the way.   The sunrise was magnificent, and I found a nice bench, where I sat down and proceeded to write this entry, which I will now close so that I can finish my cigar and head out to dinner.  I’m hoping to get to sleep early tonight so that I can wake up for Game of Thrones at 4 AM.

I suppose there’s not much left to write for today.  After I closed on the west side, I made my way back to the hotel and got ready to head to the restaurant after I charged my phone for a bit.  The name of the restaurant was Hermes, like my hotel, and it was ranked number one on Tripadvisor.  It was an 11-minute walk, mostly along the water, but there was a bit of labyrinth to traverse inside the medieval town, made easy with Google Maps guiding me.

I got to the spot shown on the map, but I could find it.  I asked where it was, and a woman from across the street said it was her restaurant.  She asked where I was recommended from.  I told her Tripadvisor, that they were ranked number one.  She seemed to have no idea.  That was odd.  I sat down and picked out some Rhodian specialties, including a local brandy called tsipouro.  To eat, I got pitaroudia (chickpea “meatballs) and kapamas (lamb and rice cooked in a clay plot).  It was all so delicious, and the restaurant was populated by British tourists, including the most charming gay couple, who had the hostess in stiches.

It was way too much to eat and drink, and, when they brought the kapamas, it was far more rice than lamb, so I just picked out all the meat, leaving most of the rice, not wanting to eat the carbs.  While I ate, I smoked a La Aroma de Cuba, which perfectly complemented the meal.  I asked for my check and, when I came back, the manager came over, concerned that I hadn’t finished my meal.  I told him it was just too much rice.  They brought me a free dessert to make up for it.  Great, more carbs.  I had a few bites as I paid my check.  I saw the name of the restaurant was Romios, not Hermes.  Huhhh?

I asked if they changed their name.  They were convinced I was a writer for Tripadvisor.  Oh, so that’s why they treated me so well.  Maybe I should try that trick again.  Well, it turned out that Hermes was a grillhouse, much like the place I got lunch.  Satisfied that I made the right choice, I walked back to the hotel.  I went up to my room and sat on the balcony, where I finished my cigar and proceeded to write this entry, which I will now close so that I can get publish and get to sleep before waking up in four hours to watch Game of Thrones with my mother.  Tomorrow, back to the Athens to see the 1896 Stadium and Parthenon again.