Mission

“These are the voyages of the traveler Steven. Its five-year mission: to explore the strange world, to seek out life and civilizations, to boldly go where few men have gone before.”

When I set out to see the world, my goal was to check off a bunch of boxes. I set some goals, got a full-time job, added some more goals, learned that taking 50 vacation days a year was not considered acceptable, figured out how to incorporate all of the goals I set, and had at it. My goal was never to explore new cultures, yet that is what these voyages have become. I have started to understand foreign cultures, but I have learned one fundamental truth. Human beings are, for the most part, the same.

Sunday, July 13, 2014

Alaska - Day 11 - Control

7/13/14

En route, Wonder Lake Shuttle, Park Road, Alaska (Denali National Park & Preserve)










I am the type of person who likes to be in control.  Of everything.  Especially when I travel.  The idea of a guided tour where someone else makes all the arrangements may seem the perfect vacation for some people.  For me, it is my personal idea of hell.  If only 10% of the things the tour covers are on my list, then it means I wasted 9 out of 10 days of the trip.  There are no tours where more than 50% of the things would be on my list.  That is why I don’t do cruises, and I don’t do organized tours.  I will hire a private tour guide or charter a boat, but I will never do one with a pre-arranged schedule, not if I can help it.  My trip this winter will be an obvious exception, but both cost and remoteness require it to be done the way it will be done.  If I could, I would want to control the weather and the traffic.

This is how I live my personal life, as well.  To me, everything is about my own choice.  From employment to relationships to my meals, I make a conscious choice in staying at a firm where I respect the management, dating a girl I find meets my values, or eating at a place where I enjoy the food.  I would never work someone I didn’t respect, date a girl I couldn’t stand, or eat food I don’t enjoy, just because someone else wanted me to do so.  I need to be in complete control of my own life.  Of course, there are things I cannot control.  I cannot control the weather or the traffic, both of which have the potential to eff my travel plans more than anything else.  Here, sitting on this bus today, I am not in control, and I hate it.  The only option I had in this case was to either not see the bulk of the park or to take one of these buses.  Private cars are not allowed past a certain distance, and I wanted to get #EveryStamp in the park boundaries.  Well, if private cars were allowed on a road like this, the Park Road would be worse than Fifth Avenue during rush hour.  If it weren’t that crowded or they built another road, we could have easily gotten #EveryStamp, including the one outside the park boundary.  As it is, we will not get that, and I might have to take a pass on trying for one that may or may not be available at Wonder Lake.

Once of the many wildlife sightings of the day.
Every time we stop on this bus from hell because someone sees a bear or a moose, all the tourists on this bus, flock to the windows, screeching in a half dozen languages.  Then the kids start crying, then the bus driver says we are going to scare away the wildlife.  Then everyone starts loudly shushing one another.




The scenery I actually wanted to see.
I just want to get my stamps and enjoy the scenary as we drive.  The mountains are the real draw to me.  It’s called Denali National Park & Preserve, not See a Bear National Park & Preserve.  It is too slow going for me, and the only thing that keeps me sane is just how beautiful it is.  I will now pause as we reach another rest stop for the collected masses to take their Us.


Polychrome, the most scenic vista of the day.
It was actually not a U stop.  It was a scenic vista, one of the most beautiful of my life.  I would have spent an hour there on my own.  As it was, we only had 15 minutes, including unloading and loading.  It would have been the perfect place for my official National Park Cuban, but we didn’t have time.  That said, it easily forces me to revise my list.  Wrangell (and The WHS) first, Denali second, Grand Canyon third, all other National Parks tied for fourth.  I suppose there are worst ways to be spending the day than staring out the window at beautiful vistas, even if I am not in control.  That said, I did not fully explore the importance of control to me.  When I travel, I am willing to go the extra mile, pay the extra dollar, so that I can be in control of all situations.  I leave margins for error for Dutch Time, the things out of my control.  The issue is when I travel with someone else.  In fact, travelling with anyone other than my mother, who understands how I travel more than anyone else in the world and is willing to accommodate me so long as we include activities we enjoy, leads to a lack of control.

The alternative is for me to brunt the entire cost of the trip and invite someone to tag along, which is what I wind up doing.  Then, for that very reason, I can claim the right of control, to control everything from the agenda, to where and when we eat, to the music in the car, to the temperature of the room.  In those scenarios, the person chose to partake in the trip I planned, a trip that I will control.  I have taken trips like that, trips where all costs were evenly split, and trips where I just paid for the “common” costs (hotels and ground transportation).  It is a quite simple concept, if I am paying for a hotel room, I control the temperature.  If we are splitting all costs 50/50, we should split control of everything 50/50.  The problem with the latter is that the lost money in vacation time and having to spend more time on the trip outweighs any potential savings.  If I need a week to do what I could do in 3 days, there is no savings, even if the costs are all split 50/50.  I am paying the exact same amount as everyone on this bus.  I have no control.  I hate that.  That said, I will pretty much get everything I want out of this trip.  I just want be able to smoke cigars en route, nor will I have as much time for activities at different stops, and it will take a lot longer, but it will work out.  Nothing can detract how beautiful this drive is and how fortunate we were with the weather.


En route, Eielson Shuttle, Park Road, Alaska (Denali National Park & Preserve)











As annoying as it was to in the bus, so too was it wonderful to be back in control at Eielson.  It was the last stamp within park boundaries, the other one at Wonder Lake not being an official stamp.  As I was stamping, someone thought I was being too slow and went for the stamp as I was laying out my brochure.  I firmly told him that I was not done using it.  He sharply told me to get on with it.  I ignored him and made sure to take my time and get the stamps perfect.  After I put the stamper back, he asked me if I was done, and I told him that I was.  It was great to be back in control again.  We could have spent 5 minutes or 5 hours there.  It was our choice.  We then lit up a couple of cigars, me choosing an Hoyo as my official Cuban of the NP, and I gave Sokol an awful cigar called a “Cheap Bastard.”  It was practically unsmokeable.  There was a trail we could take that would be about 30 minutes, but, since the whole area was wilderness, we could walk to wherever we chose to walk, go off trail, explore.  We were in control, not subject to a tour group’s plans.

Wilderness as far as the eye can see.
We did just that and found a wonderful spot with a great vista to take our official Us of the park.  It was pristine wilderness as far as the eye could see, and the rain had come out.  Unfortunately, it was still too cloudy to see Denali (Mt. McKinley), but we got #EveryStamp, took official Us, and I had a Cuban during my hike, all despite my foot injury.  Things were picking up again.  I assigned a full day for this park, as is necessary.  While I did not get to control it all, I got to do what I wanted to do, what I needed to do.  All that remains is a 3 hour ride back to the entrance with a group that is a lot calmer and more docile than the group from the rest of the bus.  After that, we make our way to hell and back.

The ride back being pretty much identical to the ride in, I took some time to nap, so that I could be better equipped to do more of the driving over the next 24 hours.  Sokol is perfectly willing to split the driving with me 50/50, but I choose to do most of the driving because I want to be in control.  It’s nice to be able to relax every once in a while, and it will be a necessity during the drive on the Dalton, but I much preferred doing all of the driving on Phase 1.  To finish up this theme of control and tie it into my fear and pain entry, I want to return to the Eowny quote.  It’s not just a line.  My biggest fear is neither death nor pain.  It is a cage.  To no longer be able to control my own life would be a fate worst than death.  As much as I engage in risky behavior or bend some lines here and there, I am careful to avoid any behavior that could land me in prison.  That is my single biggest fear.  To be in jail is the ultimate loss of control.

Ignorant people often ask about the morals of atheists and Objectivists.  Why don’t we engage in immoral behavior if we are not afraid of eternal damnation?  Why do we not commit crimes if we are entirely selfish?  The answer is quite simple.  You do not need a god to develop morals.  The best response to the question of “How do you know what is right and wrong without god?” is “Does that mean you will start raping and killing people if you lose your faith?”  Morals are morals.  Faith is entirely different.  Objectivism goes one step further says that initiating force or fraud to obtain profit is a self-destructive behavior.  It destroys your self-esteem to the point that it is not worth the profit.  However, even considering a Nihilist philosophy, the fear of being caught, the fear of going to prison, the fear of losing control over your own life, is enough to instill moral behavior.  We are almost back at the entrance, so I will close.  After we leave the park, we will make our way to Fairbanks, where I will treat the non-bus portion of the day in its entirety.


Fairbanks, Alaska














After we left the hotel in the morning, right at 4 AM, I gave Sokol the keys and asked him to wake me up when there was a quarter of a tank of gas left.  It should have been a four-hour drive, allowing us to stop for gas and a quick stop and get to the VC right at 8 AM.  When he woke me, it was 6:30 AM, pouring rain, and we were 30 miles from the park.  What had happened?  Could I have so seriously miscalculated?  What would we do in the meantime?  We stopped at the first place we could find for gas, but the other services there were closed.

View from our breakfast place.
With plenty of time on our hands, we stopped for breakfast at a crowded little motel diner.  The food was delicious, the vista amazing, and the waitress adorable.  After breakfast, we headed into the park, stopping for official pictures along the way at the two official NPS park signs.  We got to the VC right at 8 AM, well-fed, so I was happy.  It was going to be a long day.  I got my brochure and my first official stamp and found out where to find #EveryStamp.  She told us, but there was some uncertainty about Wonder Lake.  In the end, I paid to go all the way to Wonder Lake, but we turned around at Eielson instead.  It didn’t matter.  It was a small price to pay for #EveryStamp.  I might even get the last stamp outside the park on the way back Tuesday.  I also go my official NPS pin.  I texted Kayla a picture of the official NPS sign, along with a joke about the Denali Coven from Twilight.  She instantly replied.  To say that she was jealous would be an understatement.  I guess her tour of Alaska last summer did not include Denali.  I tried to make a joke to Sokol about the vampires, but, not having read/seen the later Twilight books/movies, he thought I really believed that there were vampires in the park.

We got the stamps in VC area and snuck onto an earlier bus, which was a boon, both because it would allow us to finish our tour by 6 PM, and because the bus driver was great, offering narration above and beyond what was promised.  After the tour, which I have already covered, we went to a seafood place for a scrumptious meal.  We then headed straight to our hotel in Fairbanks, the soundtrack for the day being Norah Jones’s album “Come Away with Me.”  We gassed up right before we got to town, and I got some supplies for the ride to Hell and Back, including a regular lighter to replace the torch lighters I bought in Anchorage, neither of which are working.  When were a block away from the hotel, I saw a yellow light turning red.  I could have made it, but I hesitated a moment too long before going for it.  Then I saw a cop car on the other corner and screeched on the breaks.  I stopped in time.  Sokol and I both cracked up about that close call.  We checked in, and I proceeded to right this entry, which I will now close so that I can get in 3 full sleep cycles before we journey to Hell and Back.

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