Mission

“These are the voyages of the traveler Steven. Its five-year mission: to explore the strange world, to seek out life and civilizations, to boldly go where few men have gone before.”

When I set out to see the world, my goal was to check off a bunch of boxes. I set some goals, got a full-time job, added some more goals, learned that taking 50 vacation days a year was not considered acceptable, figured out how to incorporate all of the goals I set, and had at it. My goal was never to explore new cultures, yet that is what these voyages have become. I have started to understand foreign cultures, but I have learned one fundamental truth. Human beings are, for the most part, the same.

Saturday, July 12, 2014

Alaska - Day 9 - Prayer

7/11/14
Barrow, Alaska











I cannot remember the last time I prayed for anything.  Wished, hoped, desired, sure, but appealed to some higher power to grant it to me?  Probably not in the past decade.  That said, there have been plenty of times when I have wanted to, when I desired to somehow control something that my rational self knew to be out of my control.  It seems such a simple thing.  You say a few words, and you implore this higher power to grant you a favor in exchange for those words.  Even if you do not believe in that higher power, what harm does saying a few words do?  It seems almost rational to engage in what is known as Pascal’s Wager, which says that, even if you don’t believe in a god, the cost/benefit analysis in engaging in prayer outweighs that of not.  What it does not mention is that to sacrifice your beliefs, to admit that that there is a higher power than yourself.  I am only referring to atheists in this case.  Theists have made their decisions and for them to engage in prayer would not be sacrificing anything.  Agnostics I do not include, since they have refused to make a decision and cannot be included in any rational discussion.  The atheist makes his decision that there is no higher power.

The Objectivist goes one step further and claims that his own self is the highest power.  To engage in prayer despite that means that the Objectivist can no longer hold his self as the highest power.  To utter one word of prayer one time destroys the whole supremacy of self.  The wager is not, live 80 years as an atheist and risk eternal damnation, versus live 80 years offering false prayers and possibly receive salvation.  No, the wager is, live 80 years sacrificing yourself to no one and no thing and risk eternal damnation, versus live 80 years as a slave and possibly receive salvation.  Again, I am not condemning someone who truly believes in a god.  I am criticizing someone who is not sure so just “plays it safe,” thereby becoming a slave to their fear, their uncertainty.  There is nothing worse than being a slave to anyone or anything, not even death.  After I closed, I took the opportunity to board early, knowing that with my foot, no one would saying anything.  I fell asleep almost as soon as we took off, getting a nice nap on the plane.

Then came the announcement.  It was really foggy in Barrow, no visibility.  The plane was scheduled to stop in Barrow and then continue to Prudhoe Bay (Deadhorse).  If they couldn’t land in Barrow, they would continue to Prudhoe Bay and return to Anchorage.  It is impossible to explain how much that fuck up my plans for Phase 2.  Granted, there were ways to rearrange things to possibly make it easier to hit the southern National Parks, maybe skip the drive up Dalton, see what could be done, but it would fuck up the hotels and make me need to rearrange flights.  Two times the captain tried to make the approach and had to pull out.  The flight attendant said that “Mike” was a really good pilot and, if anyone could land, he could.  There was a touch too much familiarity in her voice, but she had a ring on, so I didn’t make too much of it.  The pilot announced that he had enough gas to try one more time.  After that, he would have to continue to Deadhorse.

A part of me wanted to pray at this point, but I held to my rationality.  Sokol, on the other hand, a true theist, said the Shema, though I did not know that until later.  A few minutes later, I heard some clapping.  What did they know that I did not?  The plane was definitely slowing down, but I didn’t notice anything different.  Contact!  We landed, and I, too, clapped at that point.  For us, it was just an obstacle to our vacation.  For most of the people on the flight, they hadn’t seen their families in days, possibly not all week, and they didn’t know when they would be able to get home if the flight couldn’t land.  For the people on the ground, it was the same, and, apparently, they clapped, too, when we landed.  We got entered the airport, most of which was occupied by the security checkpoint, and saw a woman holding a binder with the name of our hotel.  I asked if she could take us to the hotel, and she did.  As she started the car, she said that really wasn’t that great of a driver.  I said, “That’s okay.  We had a good pilot, so it evens out.”  The joke went over her head.  I asked if we could get a taxi to take us to Point Barrow at solar midnight (2:33 AM).  She said that getting the taxi was not a problem, but getting to Point Barrow was.  She gave us the name of a tour operator who could take us, and I called him.  The price was high, but it would be worth it.    We checked in to the hotel, and the contract listed a fee for smoking in the room of double any fee I had ever seen.  I knew that we would not be having pipes in our room tonight.

The world's northernmost Chinese restaurant.
After we dropped our stuff in our room and took the northernmost official Us of our life, we headed out for Chinese, going to the northernmost Chinese restaurant in the world.  Just as in the small Inuit communities of Canada, the Chinese food was good and ridiculously overpriced.  It was really good, though.  Not being able to spare any Cubans, I had the next best thing after my meal, a Davidoff.  These were the northernmost cigars of our life, though we will be cigars even further north in a couple of hours.  We made our way back to the hotel, the biggest building in the city, and I told Sokol we were in the true North right now.  It was really no different than Fort Simpson or Fort Smith or Iqaluit, other than the fact that it was a tundra, instead of a wooded area.

When we got to the hotel, we stood by the entrance, which provided us a little shelter from the elements.  Someone came over to say that they were going to be repaving the parking lot at 10 PM.  We asked all sorts of questions, both to make conversation and to amuse ourselves.  The guy thought we were genuinely interested, and he had all the answers.  Soon we were told that there was a designated smoking area alongside the building and that we needed to smoke there.  We did so, but our cigars were almost done, and it was unbearably cold.  I have no idea how we’re going to do the cigars at solar midnight, let alone the plunge into the Arctic Ocean.  It will certainly be epic.  We headed up to our rooms to relax a bit before our big adventure for the evening.  I looked up a lot about the Inuit, the Inupiat, the Eskimos, and the differences among them.  The paving truck also came, which we wanted to watch, but it was underwhelming.  I uploaded some photos and proceeded to write this entry, which I will now close, so that I can get ready for our big adventure.  I will also note that this concludes the first 500 MS Word pages of my Travelogue.


Barrow, Alaska (Point Barrow)














The entire nation is behind me.  From Honolulu to Anchorage to Seattle to Dallas to New York, it is all behind me.  Every single person on the continental mainland of North America is south of me.  Sitting here at Point Barrow, with the Arctic Ocean in front of me and every other point in the United States behind me, I am freezing my hands off.  It is the middle of July, and the sun is still up.  It is hidden behind a cloud bank, ruining our chance at seeing solar midnight, but it is significant moment, nonetheless.  We were planning on doing a plunge in the Arctic Ocean right at solar midnight, but the ocean is teeming with jellyfish.  Sokol is going back and forth about whether or not to just do it anyway, but I have called it off, not willing to risk getting stung.  Instead, I have opted for puffing an Opus X and writing this entry.  I do not know when to delineate the new day for today.  I have not slept since midnight, and I will not be watching TBS.  The sun will neither rise nor set, and it is hidden behind the cloud bank, so I cannot properly even use the solar midnight delineation, unless I just want to call it at 2:33 AM.  It is now 2:10 AM.

The world's northernmost football field.
When people think about sitting on a beach in the middle of a summer night, this is not what they have in mind.  After I closed, I saw our van waiting outside, so we got ready and headed down.  It was an Inupiat driver, and he said he was the only one authorized to drive all the way up to the point.   Since it was 12:30 AM, and solar midnight was not for another 2 hours, there was no need to rush, and he showed us some interesting sites along the way, including the northernmost football field in the world.  Soon enough, we came to the end of the road, and we got out to take some pictures while he deflated the tires.  From there, it was 3 miles along what was just a glorified pebbly beach.  The ride was so rocky that I thought I would yak, but we made it.  Then we saw them.  The ocean was teeming with jellyfish, so we had to call the whole thing off.  I found the exact northernmost point, and that was where I proceeded to write this entry, which I will now close before I fully freeze off my fingers.

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