Mission

“These are the voyages of the traveler Steven. Its five-year mission: to explore the strange world, to seek out life and civilizations, to boldly go where few men have gone before.”

When I set out to see the world, my goal was to check off a bunch of boxes. I set some goals, got a full-time job, added some more goals, learned that taking 50 vacation days a year was not considered acceptable, figured out how to incorporate all of the goals I set, and had at it. My goal was never to explore new cultures, yet that is what these voyages have become. I have started to understand foreign cultures, but I have learned one fundamental truth. Human beings are, for the most part, the same.

Saturday, March 7, 2015

Winging It - Day 1 - An Audible

3/7/15

El Tajin, Veracruz, Mexico

When I travel, the hardest thing I ever have to do is call an audible.  Not the long drives, not the Munich runs, not the hikes, no, calling an audible is harder than all of that.  I’m not talking about changing where I go for lunch or when circumstances cause me to readjust my schedule.  I’m talking about substantially and intentionally changing my agenda for the day.  In the two years since I was last in Mexico, much has changed, and I have traveled around the world, probably over 100,000 miles by air, train, boat, and car.  However, in all that time, I can probably count on one hand the number of times I’ve called an audible.  The most significant one was the “Copenhagen Option” during my Eurotrip.  Since I’m #WingingIt this trip, it seemed fitting.

I woke up on the plane with a splitting headache, no doubt the brutal combination of sinus pressure and cabin pressure.  I felt like my head was going to explode.  I got up to get something to eat.  They said they had water and sandwiches.  I saw some fun size Milky Ways sitting out.  “I’ll just take a candy bar,” I said, reaching for one.  The flight attendant literally slapped my hand away, saying it was just for them.  Okay, then.  I settled for water.  The pain subsided enough for me to fall asleep, and, when I woke up, we were making our descent, and they were handing out landing cards.  Immigration was perfunctory, and Enrique was waiting for me on the other side of Customs.  Even after two years, we recognized each other immediately and greeted each like old friends.

In those two years, so much has changed in my life, but much is the same, and I will expand on that when I get to my hotel tonight.  Suffice it to say, the way I travel has changed a bit.  I am more experienced, and some things have become more or less important.  When I was in Mexico City two years ago, I didn’t care about seeing Congress.  This trip, it’s a must see.  Last time, Plaques were practically a necessary part of a WHS.  Now, they are just a bonus.  Mexico WHS are one step below US and Canadian ones, but the plaque is not necessary.

There were three things I wanted to see this trip: El Tajin, the Monarch Butterfly Reserve, and the Olympic Stadium.  The plan was to go to see the Monarchs first thing this morning, and I wanted to try and squeeze in El Tajin afterwards.  Enrique said that was impossible.  I would not have time to go to El Tajin tomorrow, since the soccer match at the Olympic Stadium was at noon, impossibly breaking up the day.  I called an audible.  We would go to El Tajin today.  Tomorrow, I would walk around the Stadium, and then we’d make a mad rush for the Monarchs.  It could work.

I lit up a Romeo, one of the cigars I had purchased on arrival, and we were on our way, stopping for gas, coffee, and snacks.  It was a process to get the snacks, including a burrito, and the cigar was out by the time I had paid for everything.  There was nothing Official about that meal.  I slept as we drove, and I realized that Enrique had no idea where he was going.  He was just using the Navigation on his phone.  I could have rented a car and done that myself for a third of the price.

Anyway, we eventually got to El Tajin.  Other than the souvenirs and this entry, there were only two things that mattered: the plaque and the nomination photo.  I had downloaded a picture of the plaque and showed it at reception.  “Ah, la placa.”  They knew exactly where it was displayed, and it was displayed very prominently.




We also had no trouble finding the spot of the nomination photo, a distinctive large rock on the ground being unmistakable.  We took some pictures and walked around, the simple wonder of the ancient site being all I needed as I smoked my Montecristo (another pickup from Duty-Free).  After I had seen as much of the site as I wanted to see, I headed to a bench that afforded a view of the nomination photo.  I asked Enrique to get my computer bag.  I felt a little awkward about it, as I like doing things for myself, something I no doubt inherited from my father.  Oh, along those lines, I had a very interesting debate on Facebook with my cousin and one of her friends as we drove.  When Enrique came back with my computer bag, I proceeded to write this entry, which I will now close so that we can get lunch and make our way back to the city.


Mexico City, Federal District, Mexico


Mont Tremblant, Vienna, the Drake Passage, and Belmopan.  No, this night, this view of the Mexican capital cannot live up to them.  My reader should know what this means by now.  I am smoking my 2008 Christmas Pipe and comparing it to the previous places I have smoked it.  This does not compare.  In fact, nothing will ever live up to the Corinthian.  Now, that I have two months of distance, I can separate the good memories from the bad and easily place it in the top five of my trips of al time.  As the sun sets over the Federal District, I find myself perched up on the window sill, quite contentedly writing this entry, and I am happy.

In fact, I would say that, at this very moment, I am purely happy, no stress, no regrets, no doubts.  I don’t know how many minutes that will last before I find something to dampen my happiness, but, at this very moment, I am happy, purely happy.  Two years ago, I think I was also purely happy.  Two years ago, when I was last here, I was in the process so of remaking myself into the person I wanted to be.  The externalities were not there, but that didn’t matter.  As long as I worked everything out from the inside, the rest would follow I told myself.  I was right.  It did.  I made new friends, succeeded at work and school, was exactly the man I wanted to be for a year.

Then I found her, the perfect woman.  It was what I had been waiting for.  She liked me.  She thought I was funny.  It seemed the most natural thing in the world to ask her out.  I finally plucked up my courage.  “I’m gay” was the response.  Four months later, she quickly become one of my best friends, and I possibly fell even more in love with her.  When I threw out my Objectivist values to date my ex, she was the one rock that tethered me to whatever remnants of those values remained.

It was another rock, the girl I love more than I do anyone outside of my family that helped me remember my Objectivist values when I needed them most about six weeks ago.  Three times now she has brought me back from the brink.  The first time, she made my life worth living again, though she doesn’t know it, and I will not tell her 160 characters at a time.  That needs to be done in person.  The second time, she called my ex “dumb and annoying.”  She was right.  It was exactly what I needed to see and exactly whom I needed to tell it to me.  It was four hours after the breakup, and, by the end of our conversation, I was over my ex.

I’m still not fully over her, but, once I find someone else, I will be.  The third time, I found someone else, someone whom I did not respect and could never love.  She was crazy about me, but I knew that I could never feel for her a fraction of what I felt for the girl who was texting me dozens of times a day.  I avoided doing something I would regret and broke it off with the new girl, knowing that I would one day find someone worth loving.  I will not justify those last two words.  Anyone who understands my values understands that I believe love, like anything else, is to be earned, not given.  In the past two years since I’ve last been in Mexico, I have come to realize the truth of it.

What else has changed in the past two years?  Well, this Travelogue for one.  I have started to publish it, which means that I self-filter and self-edit as I write, instead of meticulously recording every detail of every event and every thought that enters my mind.  I have established new protocols and dismissed some old ones.  The Official Us.  That’s the big one.  How about in my life.  The staff at work has almost entirely been replaced.  Excluding management, of the 15 or so workers there, only 3 were there the last time I was in Mexico.  The staff at the cigar store has undergone some changes.  I believe only one full-time worker now was working there full-time when I last went to Mexico.  The old manager, my best friend there, left.  I still visit him in Brooklyn from time to time, just like I used to.  He’s really the only person I’ll cross water to visit.  He’s been my friend for over eight years now, and I hope to enjoy his friendship for another eight years or more.

Hmm, who else was in my life then that is still in my life now.  The three coworkers, along with my family, obviously.  My best friend who is a brother to me in all but blood and name.  The girl I have been talking about, though we were barely friends back then, just the occasional Facebook interaction.  Now, she’s like a sister to me.  Then, she was just a crush and a happy memory.  How about the new people in my life.  I mentioned a few of them in the previous entry.  New coworkers, obviously.  I now consider my brother’s fiancée to be my sister in all but blood and name.  I was not too fond of her back then.  My new best friend.  I certainly did not know him when I was last in Mexico, nor the other girl whom I consider to be like a sister, as well.  I guess Pablo was in my life then as well as now.

I’m still living in my same apartment, with the same TV, the same entertainment system, the same Blu-ray discs on the floor, the same clothes in my closet, the same toys on my shelves, even the same damn towel and bathrobe.  New suit, new water bottle, new suitcase, new phone, same laptop though.  Same penchant for tobacco and alcohol and Diet Coke and Chinese food and pizza and bagels and cookies and everything else I enjoy consuming.  I am once more back on my Objectivist path, so, I guess, not much has changed.

Alright, enough of this.  Time for the adventures of the day.  Wait, I already did that, not much left to report.  After I closed, we got lunch, regional mole for me, along with a beer.  I, of course, used chopsticks.  Enrique gave me a surprised look, but I realized that it was not the chopsticks that surprised him, rather the ravenous manner in which I ate my food, being so starving.  He didn’t give the chopsticks a second glance.  I got all the souvenirs I needed, and we headed back.  I lit up an Ashton ESG, a huge cigar, a big mistake, since I wanted to fall asleep.

As soon as I finished it, I fell asleep and woke up a few blocks from Congress.  We took our pictures and headed to the Casa del Habano.  It was not the same one we visited last time.  It was on the second floor of a mall, and it was closed.  Damn it!  Well, I could get something at Duty-Free tomorrow night.  I could not find the down escalator.  Not wanting to waste time looking for it, I ran down the up escalator.  Two cute girls gave me an amused look, and one said with a smile, “Que practico!”  ("How practical!”)  My Spanish is pretty decent, and I’m decent enough flirter once the ice has been broken.  However, I was not quite sure I could pull off flirting in Spanish.

We went to the hotel, picking out a restaurant on the way, which is possibly the most iconic restaurant in Mexico.  It is only a few blocks from my hotel.  Que suerte!  I checked in, went up to my room, relaxed a bit, messaged back and forth with my new and old friends, and put the shower cap over the smoke detector.  I had requested a smoking room.  They did not oblige.  The fee for smoking is nominal, about 18% of what it usually is in the US, so I’m willing to risk it.  I wanted a nice view of the city while I wrote my entry, so I rubbed out my tobacco and hopped up on the window ledge, where I proceeded to write this entry, which I will now close so that I can head out to dinner.  It was bright as day when I started writing this entry.  Now, it’s as black as night.  It’s remarkable how quickly it gets dark in the lower lattitudes.



Pure happiness.  Yes, that is what I am feeling right now, what I am continuing to feel even three hours later.  Ever since I left NYU in 2008, I had only told one person that I love them.  Sure, I have written in my Travelogue about the people I love, and they have read how I feel about them, but that doesn’t count.  I had only said or written “I love you” to one person.  That one person was my ex.  I suppose there is some kind of code of conduct for what you and cannot say about a person after the relationship is over.  The first time we said it, just four months ago, she told me not to include it in my Travelogue.  “I wouldn’t,” I had told her.  Do I still have to honor her wishes now that she chose to walk away, now that she chose not only to leave the relationship but to leave my life entirely?  If I had said, “I promise I’ll never say anything about it,” there would be no question.  My word is my bond.  However, that was not the phrasing I used.  I merely said that it’s not the kind of thing I would do, and it presupposed me having feelings for her, feelings that no longer exist.

Alright, here goes.  She was always very uncomfortable saying those words.  I will respect her privacy to some extent and not explain why she was uncomfortable saying.  Suffice it to say that she was.  The truth was, I’m uncomfortable saying it, too.  I don’t say it to my family, not to my best friend, not to anyone.  When I was writing about the four women in my life last semester, they were the four women outside my family I love the most in the world.  I would not have hesitated a second to say it to any one of them every time I saw them or spoke with them, so long as it wouldn’t make them feel uncomfortable.

I’ve lost count of the times I almost blurted it out to my philosophy classmate during or after our long post-class discussions, discussions that would last sometimes the entire length of a Churchill.  I have no doubt that she knew how I felt about her.  She is smart and intuitive and rational enough, and she knew me well enough to be able to figure it out.  During one of our conversations, she said that she was uncomfortable when people, even friends said it to her.  I signed her graduation card “With much philia,” philia being one of the four Greek words for love, the one that best described how I felt towards her.  I knew that despite whatever, “Let’s hang out” promises she made, day of the final was the last time I would ever see her.  Or, if I see her, it would only be extremely rarely.  I could not tell her how I felt, but when I kissed her goodbye on the top of her head, I’m sure she knew what I left unspoken.  The kiss on the top of the head is kind of my trademark move for people I truly and utterly adore.  Actually, I’m not going to go into that.  If I see her in person, I’ll tell her how I feel.

That leaves the last of the four girls, the one I met most recently, and the one with whom I am now closest.  We have previously messaged each other that we adore each other, one step below the L word.  Hmm, I wonder if this more properly belongs in WIJG.  I might have to edit it out, but it speaks to why I’m feeling pure happiness right now, and, if I don’t include it, I’ll need to edit out this entire section.  I’ve gotten ahead of myself, and I need to establish the proper context.

After I closed, I headed out to the restaurant, a short walk from my
hotel.  I ordered a Dos Equis, the beer from the famous commercials featuring “The Most Interesting Man in the World,” who says, “I don’t always drink beer, but, when I do, I prefer Dos Equis.”  Let’s just say that every time I have ever had a Dos Equis in my life, the only reason I got it was because of those commercials.  I had trouble understanding the menu, not because my Spanish was bad, but because a lot of dishes were unfamiliar to me, including escamol, which is literally ant larvae and pupae, yes, a local Aztec delicacy.  I ordered that, along with three appetizers, the prices being cheap enough.  When my beer came, I knew what I had to do.  It would require four texts.  It would be the perfect joke, and I knew the one person in the world who would appreciate it the most.  The first text would be the famous quote, “I don’t always drink beer, but, when I do, I prefer Dos Equis.”  The second text would be a Bitmoji picture of me drinking a beer.  The third text would be, “Oops, wrong picture…”  The fourth text, the one to bring it all together, would be a picture of me recreating the Bitmoji picture with the Dos Equis.  The joke hit the mark perfectly.

In last night’s WIJG entry, I wrote about how I often view texting (and, by extension, Facebook) as just a game.  When I think of something funny or see something interesting, who would appreciate it the most?  Who would respond to it the best?  If it’s something that has wide appeal, I’ll post it on Facebook, then the game becomes how many Likes I can get from my Facebook post.  Sometimes I hit the mark.  Sometimes I miss.  Like any game, you win some, and you lose some.

The response let me know how well I hit the mark.  “Hahahahaha, I just love you”  Yes, the girl whom I so dearly love, as much as I could love a sister, just said that she loved me.  I did not hesitate with my response.  I did not hesitate to write the three words that I had not sent to anyone in over seven years, that I had only said to one person in those seven years.  “Aww, I love you, too :)”

The meal was delicious, and I couldn’t even finish it.  The dessert was even better, natillas and Mexican coffee.  I needed a cigar, badly, and I had an Avo with my name on it.  I once more felt pure happiness as I walked home, though now I’m just tired.  I still want to do my primacy versus recency WIJG entry.  In short it will describe how I will always place higher value on primacy than recency, that I value my history with someone far more than my current relationship. 

I stopped to pick up some desserts, not that I needed them, and they’ll probably make it back to New York, at a pharmacy and an Oxxo (Mexican 7-11), along with some coffee.  I was shocked how cheap it all was, about a third to half of what I expected to pay.  I have a very good danger sense, and I know when I am someplace safe and when I need to keep my guard up.  Walking back to my hotel, I felt extremely safe, as safe I would in Midtown Manhattan, despite the scare stories I got from the ladies at the office.

I headed back up to my room, lit up my Avo, and sat down in the chair, where I proceeded to write this entry, which I will now close so that I can publish, write my WIJG entry, and get some sleep.  Clocks are springing forward an hour in New York, but, here in Mexico they are staying the same, which is convenient.  It also means that my watch, which is now on New York, will neither be on Mexican nor New York time when I wake up tomorrow, ironic.

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