Mission

“These are the voyages of the traveler Steven. Its five-year mission: to explore the strange world, to seek out life and civilizations, to boldly go where few men have gone before.”

When I set out to see the world, my goal was to check off a bunch of boxes. I set some goals, got a full-time job, added some more goals, learned that taking 50 vacation days a year was not considered acceptable, figured out how to incorporate all of the goals I set, and had at it. My goal was never to explore new cultures, yet that is what these voyages have become. I have started to understand foreign cultures, but I have learned one fundamental truth. Human beings are, for the most part, the same.

Sunday, December 28, 2014

Antarctica - Day 2 - By Bus and By Boat

12/28/14

At sea, M/V Corinthian, Beagle Channel

And we’re off!  With my first puff of the Davidoff Nic Toro, our voyage has Officially begun.  That is always my first cigar for my first long drive a trip, and it is the cigar I smoked en route from Zagreb to the National Park a year ago.  This trip, it is the cigar I smoke as we navigate the Beagle Channel.  Last night, there was this woman going around introducing herself to anyone, “Hi, I’m Nancy Baxter.”  I had no desire to make new friends.  This trip was, for me, supposed to be about smoking cigars and writing philosophy, well, that and setting foot on the Great White Continent.  I didn’t even bother to dress or shower before I headed down for breakfast, deciding instead to save that for afterwards.  These were strangers whom I intended to remain strangers.

When Nancy Baxter approached me last night, I shook her hand and said, “Hi, I’m Mike.”  It was then that I realized that I could be anyone I wanted to be on this trip.  These people didn’t know me, didn’t know my personality, didn’t even know my name, and I would never have to see any of them again.  It was a very similar realization as I had in Israel, but it was not until 12 hours later, when I saw Nancy Baxter on the bus that I realized the potency of it.  “Hi, Nancy, good to see you again.”  Would she remember me?  Would she remember the fake name I gave her?  Of course not.  She asked me how I slept, and I responded.  It was at that point that I decided that, for the next 9 days, I would be someone else.  No, I would not be “Mike,” but I would not be the shy, introverted person I typically am.

I got off the bus, lit up my Cohiba, and took some photos at the first stop in Tierra del Fuego National Park.  We had 20 minutes, which was not enough time to finish my cigar, so I put it in the cigar saver and got back on board.  Well, how far would I take this social experiment?  I extended my hand to the woman sitting next to me.  “I’m Steven, by the way.”  “Vanessa.”  We exchanged pleasantries for the next minute or so.  Who was I?  This was not the same person that flat out ignored the couple sitting across from him last night.  We got to the second stop, got my brochure stamped, got coffee that was no better than awful coffee from breakfast (just like Israel), and smoked some more of the cigar.

The last stop was, literally, the End of the Road.  We could see Chile not 4 km away.  I finished my cigar by the time the group finished their little hike, and we got back on the boss.  Our next stop was lunch.  It was served family style, and I left my coat to take a U, my last Official U for quite some time, certainly not until we set foot in Antarctica.  When I got back, the girl who was, by far, the most beautiful girl in our group was sitting next to me with her family.  This was not about flirting.  This was about socializing, forcing myself to socialize in ways that I do not typically do, so I started making small talk with her step-brother, who was sitting across from me.  I then took out the chopsticks to use as a serving utensil.  Someone on the other side of me wondered out loud why she didn’t have chopsticks and then realized that I brought my own.  It did not go well, and I splashed Elizabeth trying to take a piece of chicken skin.

Yeah, I learned the names of, I think a dozen people today (Nancy, Vanessa, Dom, Elizabeth, Andy, L---, Sam, Dennis), okay, so eight new people.  Wait, that’s not me.  What good was coming out of this social experiment?  Would it really make my trip any more enjoyable than relegating myself to my philosophy and writing?  I could hardly see that as being possible.  The odds of seeing any of these people again is slim to none, so why should I care?  Anyway, I had no further interest in talking with Elizabeth and her family and instead went outside to smoke my Padron 50th Anniversary, one of the top ten rated cigars of the year.

Dom and Vanessa followed shortly with some grand plan for her to take a picture of him scaring some birds with his drone.  I was not interested in that.  I just wanted to finish my cigar and stare at the pretty mountains.  That was exactly what I did.  When we got to town, I realized I would need lighter gas, as it was already empty, and it was only Day 2.  I got eight butane lighters and a tin of gas.  I also picked up two beers, a bottle of Malbec, and an opener.  They would not go to waste.

It was then time for us to board.  I checked in and went to my tiny cabin, which did not have operable windows and had a very sensitive smoke detector, along with numerous sprinkler heads.  I knew that I would not be smoking in my cabin.  I realized I still didn’t have access to the WiFi, so I went to the lobby.  There were two people about my age sitting down.  Actually, they were exactly my age.  It was a brother and sister (Dennis and Sam).  It turned out that Dennis was in my same year at NYU, and he majored in Philosophy.  Well, maybe I could use a new best friend for the next 10 days…

Anyway, the three of us formed a quick bond, and, when they brought me the code for my WiFi, I had no desire to use, not until our conversation came to a natural close.  This was not like Israel.  No, in Israel, you could not get a word out of me edgewise while I had my phone with me and connectivity.  Well, one person was able to, but that’s another story.  Actually, a few people were, but that’s not the point.  I put the password in, and I checked on my statuses and what not.  I sent out a bunch of messages, posted some updates, and then went back to my room.  I had to get a new code for my laptop, which I used to upload the last batch of South America photos.

It is almost dinner time, so I will wrap up.  We had an introductory briefing and a safety drill, and it was soon time to set sail.  I was going to go the smoking area, read some Locke, and smoke my Nic Toro.  Once I heard Sam’s voice call out, “Hi, Steven,” I knew that plan was out the window.  I followed my new friends up to the top deck whence we watched the harbor slowly fade away.  She is extremely well traveled, this being her seventh continent.  Actually, I will probably never see so many members of the Seven Club assembled in one place ever again in my life.  This was making seven for Vanessa, as well, six for Dom.  We were talking with three high schoolers, for all of whom this would make seven as well.  I felt poorly traveled this trip only taking me to four and five.  I really need to do that weekend in Casablanca as soon as possible.  Anyway, we chatted some more, joked around, and admired the views.  After the conversation started to falter, I excused myself and headed down to the third level, where I proceeded to write this entry, which I will now close so that I can finish my cigar and get dinner.



After the adventurous drives that brought me to Ottawa and Budapest, this boat ride through the Beagle Channel seems almost a let down, but, as I light up my 2007 Christmas Pipe, just as I did in Ottawa and Budapest, this view puts to shame the view of Parliament and the streets of Budapest.  It is close to midnight, and, off to my left is a sunset as beautiful as any I have ever seen.  Straight ahead a half moon rises (or maybe sets) over a dark sky.  The weather is pleasant enough for me to be sitting outside in my pajamas, flip flops and overcoat as I write this entry.

I suppose I shall start with dinner.  If my reader will allow me a bit and immodesty, I will call upon my favorite quote of Kennedy, “I think this is the most extraordinary collection of talent, of human knowledge, that has ever been gathered together at the White House, with the possible exception of when Thomas Jefferson dined alone.”  It was the greatest and most stimulating intellectual conversation have ever experienced at a meal since my summers at MathCamp.  There was not a single person at that table that could not hold their own in the conversation, no matter where the conversation veered.  All eight of us were up to the task and engaged in this fruitful and profitable debate and discussion.

When I entered the dining room, I sought out my new friends, Danny (not Dennis as I had previously written) and Sam welcoming me to the empty seat at their table.  I had missed the salad course, purposely, and ordered the John Dory.  I asked who John Dory was when they brought my fish.  Catching my jest, the person who was sitting next to me, John, pointed to my plate and said, “Him,” and made some joke about John Dory not being quick enough on his feet or something.  The conversation ranged from the ethical implications of Dom’s drone to what cameras will be like in 20 years to what public transporation and cars will be like in 20 years to the past and future of video games to people who like to use retro technology to the first computers and programming language.

When I took out my chopsticks, Danny and Sam’s father asked where I got them.  I acted all confused, but John had to spoil me fun, saying I had them in my pocket.  Danny and Sam got a kick out of the idea.  If I take all of my meals with them, one of two things will happen.  Either they will get bored of it, or they will want to get in on it.  In either case, it means I will have to start using a fork by the end of the trip.  After the meal, we excused ourselves and went our separate ways.  Sam went outside to see the penguins, and Danny went up to the 4th Deck.

I checked my social media updates and then went to catch up with them, but they were nowhere to be found.  Instead, I went back to the smoking area to smoke my Partagas.  After it was done, I looked around again for them and was about to head back to my cabin when I heard a familiar voice call out, “Hey, Steven.”  She was bundled up, only her eyes and nose visible.  If it were not for her trademark nosering, I would not have recognized her.  We headed up together to the bar area where they had free coffee and where Danny was waiting.

This was not me.  Why wasn’t I smoking cigars and writing my philosophy?  I think Sokol summed it up best.  He asked how dinner was, and I said that the food was okay but the conversation excellent.  His response, “You actually spoke to people and made friends?” was spot on, so I referred him to my forthcoming entry.  L--- was there chatting with Danny, and when Nancy Baxter came over to ask where her grandmother was (Nancy, L---, and L---’s grandmother all being part of the same group), L--- said that her grandmother went to the room to read her book and insisted that her granddaughter go find “the young people.”  I realized that I was doing exactly the same thing.  The young people in their 20s had found each other and chatted with each other.

Why was I here?  This was no longer a challenge or a social experiment.  I was there because I was enjoying it, because I’d rather be up there with them than down in the smoking area with philosophers who have been dead for centuries.  What could the texts of Locke hold against Dom’s realization that maybe using the drone was not the best idea on this trip?  Did I want to read an Essay Concerning Human Understanding or did I want to interact with actual humans.  I made my choice.  It was the latter.  We talked and chatted for hours.  At one point, Sam said she was going to bed, then she looked at some pictures of penguins.  A new friend had joined us, Davie, possibly the youngest of the group.  An hour later, we had all rearranged ourselves around the table where the tablet that pictures of penguins was.

Eventually, we all decided to go to bed, but I knew I would find no sleep, certainly not until I wrote this entry and smoked my 2007 Christmas Pipe.  I changed into my pajamas and went to the smoking area to test the weather.  Davie was there and was shocked to see me outside in a t-shirt.  It was perfectly bearable, but I got my coat just in case and rubbed out my tobacco.  We are now turning out of the Beagle Channel, so I should wrap this up.  Anyway, I sat down out here, lit up my pipe, and proceeded to write this entry, which I will now close so that I can publish it, finish my pipe, maybe have a beer, and get some sleep.

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