Mission

“These are the voyages of the traveler Steven. Its five-year mission: to explore the strange world, to seek out life and civilizations, to boldly go where few men have gone before.”

When I set out to see the world, my goal was to check off a bunch of boxes. I set some goals, got a full-time job, added some more goals, learned that taking 50 vacation days a year was not considered acceptable, figured out how to incorporate all of the goals I set, and had at it. My goal was never to explore new cultures, yet that is what these voyages have become. I have started to understand foreign cultures, but I have learned one fundamental truth. Human beings are, for the most part, the same.

Thursday, January 1, 2015

Antarctica - Day 6 - New Year, The Old Me

1/1/15

Aboard M/V Corinthian, Anchored, Arthur Harbour

It is almost cliché to talk about “New Year, new me.”  Well, that is not my intention.  No, for it me it will be “New Year, back to the old me.”  I do not like the person I have been over the past six months.  For a variety of reasons and in many different ways, I have become a person who has no longer been true to himself, and it is a bad habit that I intend to leave behind in 2014.  When L---’s grandmother called me very strange (or maybe weird) this morning, it was a term that I embraced.  I’m not sure if she meant it as an insult or if she was just being herself and calling it like she saw it.  I am who I am, and I am weird and strange and different from most people.  I have different values and tastes and behavior than most other people.  I am okay with all of that.  However, I am not okay with hiding my true self from anyone.  I am not okay with pretending to be someone I am not.

The person who I was in June 2014 was my pinnacle of self.  It was a person of whom I am immensely proud.  It was what I considered to be my ideal self, someone who was always and completely true to himself.  It is to that pinnacle that I will return.  The people in my life who do not like my true self are welcome to leave my life, and the new people whom I meet who do not like my true self are not forced to enter my life.  That is the main principle by which I have lived most of my life, yet I seem to have forgotten it over the past six months.  Today, I have been that person, and I am very proud of myself.

Now I will attempt to recall the festivities of last night as best as I am able.  It is kind of like The Hangover, where the photos taken help fill in the gaps of the memory, but I think I remember the basic outline of what happened.  After I closed and published, it was past 11 PM local time, so I got ready and headed to the club.  Everyone was there.  Over the next five hours, I proceeded to get utterly and royally toasted.  I use the term “last night” loosely, since it never got dark out.  Sunset was at 11:59 PM, sunrise at 2:43 AM, and the sun never dipped more than 3 or 4 degrees below the horizon, meaning it was bright as day outside the entire time.  This is the only place in the world you can have a New Year’s celebration in daylight.  It is something truly incredible.

As midnight approached, I got further into my cups, and I was past caring about the consequences of anything.  I could be my true self without caring whom I offended or pissed off, without caring who didn’t like my true self.  We kept alternating between inside and outside to moderate our body temperatures, it being too warm inside and too cold outside.  It was then time for the countdown, and John Frick handed out lyrics to Auld Lang Syne.

Once we said, “Happy New Year!” there was much confusion, but it was midnight, and I did the same thing I do every New Year’s at midnight.  I raised my glass and starting singing in my deepest voice, “Should auld acquaintance be forgot and never brought to mind?” Taking my lead, the rest of the ship joined me, “Should auld acquaintance be forgot and auld lang syne?”  John Frick then cut us off, and he cued the music, to which we all sung along.

There were no fireworks as there were in Quebec and Vienna, but the beautiful, daylit, natural backdrop was more amazing than any fireworks could possibly be.  I will be in Hong Kong and Sydney for the next two New Year’s, and I know how spectacular their fireworks will be, but it will pale in comparison to the view from Port Lockroy.  Danny and Davey headed out with me to the deck to take an epic Happy New Year picture.  It is my New Year’s tradition to say “Happy New Year!” with a very particular tone and accenting to every stranger I see on my way back to my hotel room or bed.  However, there was one problem.  There were no strangers to be found.  Everyone on the boat knew my name, and I knew all of their names.  Even some of the crew could be counted in my new friends.

At some point, I lost my shoes, and I knew that I was utterly and royally toasted.  I was no longer pretending to be normal.  This was the true me, the person who gets drunk on New Year’s, and guess what, my new friends are still friends with me, the bonds of friendship cemented possibly even deeper.  As midnight in Times Square approached, we went to the bridge, and I stumbled in.  I said that I was going to get a bottle of sparkling wine from my room.  Davey and I had planned to crack open the sparkling wine at 2 AM and share my Davidoff Year of the Sheep on the 6th Deck.  I said that I was going to get the sparkling wine, and L--- tried to stop me, saying that I was drunk enough already and that I needed water, not more wine.  I ignored her and said that I would be up on the 6th Deck.

From the way they said, “Okay,” I did not expect to see them again.  That was okay.  No amount of enjoyment value was going to take away from my fulfillment value of drinking Argentinian sparkling wine, in Antarctic waters, in broad daylight, smoking my Davidoff, as the ball dropped in Times Square.  I took my first unofficial U of 2015 off the port side, and I soon heard the crashing of doors, something I did not expect to hear.  It was L--- and Davey, and they had found my shoes.  L--- was basically there to make sure I was okay.  Aww, it meant that she cared.

She said goodnight, and Davey and I hung out together for the next two hours, becoming new best friends.  We told each other pretty much our entire life stories, holding back no details.  It turned out that we are extremely similar in many ways.  He said that he will be moving to New York soon, and we were both very pleased with the idea of being able to continue our friendship after the trip.  Once the cigar was done, we headed down to the lounge to warm up a little bit, and that was when one of the crew joined us.  I forgot his name [Wayan], but we were glad to have him join us in the celebrations.

We then lit up a Cohiba and went out to the smoking deck.  We were starting to get a little cold, sitting and standing in place, but it was our feet that were getting the brunt of it, and I had a brilliant idea.  The boot locker was right next to the smoking area, so I suggested we change into our boots.  The crew member helped us with the boots, and they worked like a charm.  Beth came down at some point to make sure that we (well, Davey) were okay, since he hadn’t come to the cabin yet.  It was 4 AM at this point.

Once again, I forgot my shoes, but the crew member, whose name still escapes even though he just walked over to give me a very friendly greeting, made sure that my shoes and I made it safely back to my cabin.  I think I fell asleep almost as soon as my head hit the pillow.  My battery is almost dead, my cigar is almost done, and everyone is coming back from the afternoon’s excursion, so I will close for now and save the adventures of the past eight hours and this morning’s epic excursion for this evening’s entry.  While we were on the 6th Deck, I said to Davey that we would each have about 50 more New Year’s, and we could say with absolute certainty that we would never have a more amazing one in our entire lives than this one.  He could not disagree.


At sea, M/V Corinthian, Lemaire Channel

Alright, so I woke up just before 8:30 AM, which was when breakfast was over, with the worst hangover of my life.  It was #Epic.  I raced down to the cafeteria, where they had just closed the doors, but I opened them, took a plate, and brought it back up to my room.  The last Zodiac to Palmer Station was at 10:30 AM, so I went back to sleep, woke up around 10 AM, scarfed down my food, threw my waterproof pants and parka right on over my pajamas, and headed to the lounge.

When I got there L--- once more teased me for not having packed waterproof pants, saying that I really lucked out that they had extra gear for me.  I explained that it was my plan to just go ashore on the continent, take a picture, and go back, so waterproof gear was not much of a consideration for me.  That was when L---’s grandmother called me very strange.  She asked if I had a girlfriend.  I said that I did.  She asked if my girlfriend also uses chopsticks.  I said that she didn’t, and she is not particularly pleased when I use them.  L--- then asked if the checklist travel was how I usually travel.  I said that it was.  She asked if I was enjoying this trip.  Of course I was.  She asked if I would consider travelling like this again.  Absolutely not.  She could not make sense of that apparent contradiction, but it should be obvious to my reader.

Anyway, Palmer Station is an American research station, but, more importantly, it had a gift shop and a cafeteria.  This would be the closest I would get to an Official meal in Antarctica, and it would be my best chance for an Official U.  That was all I cared about, not the scientific research, not the scenery, not the penguins.  Even only wearing two layers, I was quite warm as we walked around outside the station, so I took off my parka.  I was walking around Antarctica, outside, in a t-shirt.  We went to the gift shop, and I got a bunch of souvenirs for myself and a t-shirt for Aliyah with my favorite Lord of the Rings quote, a quote that I use to tease her whenever we wander around aimlessly: “Not all who wander are lost.”

Beth then pointed out that they had Nalgenes.  Of course I had already seen the Nalgenes, but, when she mentioned it, something clicked in my head.  Yes, my mother had already purchased a new Nalgene identical to Mark 2, but shouldn’t each bottle look different?  With the Iron Movie, Mark 2 looked very similar to Mark 1, but Mark 3 looked entirely different.  I wanted my Mark 2 water bottle to look similar to my Mark 1 water bottle so that I could pretend it was the same one, but I was not doing that with Mark 3.  If I got the water bottle here, it would always remind me of this trip, and it was the only way that I could sip it in all continents, which I will do by the end of next year with Mark 3.  It also would allow me to have water bottle for Uruguay.  In addition to the water bottle, I made another practical purchase: sweatpants.

Afterwards, we headed to the cafeteria, where they served brownies and coffee.  It was a stretch to call that an Official meal, but no more of a stretch that it was to claim my cigarillo, coffee, and cookie in the Golan Heights as allowing me to check off Syria.  I took my Official U, and we headed back.  I had a Partagas, and it was soon time for lunch, and I once again sat with Beth's family.  The fried calamari was the best part, but Beth did not like it, so she offered it to me, which I picked off her plate with my chopsticks.  Andy found it much more amusing than she did.  I also had my much needed coffee.  After lunch, I took a nap, opting out of the Zodiac tour.

After my nap, I went to the smoking area, lit up an Oliva, the number on ranked cigar of 2014, and a cigar well-deserving of that ranking, and wrote my entry.  I closed as people started to get back, and I then mingled for the next hour or so.  I took another nap, and my plan was to write this entry with a cigar before dinner.  While that was what happened in the end, it is quite ironic that it did happen.  I lit up my OpusX and turned on my computer.  The battery was almost dead.  I once again forgot to plug the cord into the wall when I plugged the cord into the computer.  Okay, I would charge it for thirty minutes and then upload my photos before the briefing.  I could then do the entry after dinner.

However, we were making our way to the Lemaire channel, one of the most scenic views possible from water, and we got there right before the briefing was scheduled to begin.  The briefing was postponed until after dinner so that we could enjoy the view.  Excellent.  I had already uploaded my photos, so I proceeded to write this entry, which I will now close since my cigar is almost done, the battery is almost dead, and it is almost dinner time.


At sea, M/V Corinthian, Butler Passage

Over the past 27 years, I have lived a very privileged existence in many ways, and while most of it has been supplied by money, good dinner company is something that cannot be purchased with dollars or euros or pesos.  It is remarkable to think that this trip I have had three of most enjoyable dinners of my life.  I'm not talking about the food.  I’m talking about the company.  While tonight’s dinner converation was nowhere near as fulfilling as the intellectual debates of our first dinner on the ship, nor was it as enjoyable as the dinner with Beth’s family last night, it is a very close third.  However, I can say with absolute certainty that it trumps my New Year’s breakfast in Quebec and my dinner in Ephesus last year, the times I smoke my 2012 Christmas Pipe on my two previous New Year’s trips, as I am doing now.

I went to assume my usual seat at the foot of their corner table when Beth’s father very politely told me that they only had enough seats for the family tonight.  What would do I do?  True to my vow, I did exactly what my old self would have done and something that would test who my true friends were and who was merely tolerating my presence.  I found an empty table of eight, and I took the seat against the wall.  Who would join me?  Well, as the time went by, none of my new friends were coming down, and I was getting hungry.  I did not want to eat too much bread, and they would not serve me until I had a full table.  Would my new friends come join me, or would they sit elsewhere, leaving me to be joined by a group of strangers?  When Vanessa came down and gave me a cheerful smile from across the room, I thought she was going to join me, but then I saw her sit down with her parents.  I then did exactly what my old self would have done.  I went up to my room, got my Locke book and a highlighter and went back to my seat.  Hmm, I then wavered.  Vanessa or Locke?

Grabbing my wine glass, I chose the former.  I asked if I could join their table.  Vanessa gladly invited me to sit down, and her parents greeted me warmly.  They knew who I was, of course.  I had become a minor celebrity in their circle.  They relished the chance to share a meal with the mysterious man who spent his time on the continent sitting in a secluded clove, writing on his computer, oblivious to the penguins walking by him.  Vanessa seemed almost embarrassed that she knew me best of the group.  Her parents formally introduced themselves to me, and I took an instant liking to her father, Phil, and he was very happy to finally meet me.  Somewhat embarrassed, I asked her parents their names.  After they provided them, Vanessa coyly said that I already knew her name, of course.  After Nancy Baxter, she was the first name I learned from the group.

The group asked what I did, and I told them that I was an engineer aspiring to be a writer.  They said that this trip was sure to give me plenty of good material.  Misunderstanding, I told them that I had written 600 words just about dinner last night.  Phil asked if they were going to make it into my book.  I assured them that they would.  We shared all sorts of funny and interesting stories throughout the meal, but the funniest one was about the trip to Poland.  Vanessa and Phil had planned a surprise trip to take Wanda (Vanessa’s mother) to Poland, her home country, a month ago.

They told her they were going to New York, figuring the weather would be about the same.  Once they flew into New York, they told her they were continuing on to Poland.  Rather than being ecstatic, she flipped out and started screaming.  For starters, it was much colder in Krakow than Manhattan.  Additionally, Wanda said that people dress up nicely when they go out for dinner, and she didn’t have any nice clothes.  Vanessa said that they considered themselves very lucky to be let into to all of the restaurants dressed the way they were.  All of her friends were texting her asking her to send pictures of how excited her mom was.  Instead, Wanda just ignored them until it was time for the flight.  It was a great story, and they knew how to tell it.  I told Vanessa about the surprise trip I had planned with my girlfriend for the weekend after Valentine’s Day, saying that she just knew to have her passport ready and pack for warm weather.  Vanessa much approved of that idea.

When we were done with dinner, Phil asked me if they had provided any good material, and I assured him that they had.  We had the briefing for tomorrow, and, afterwards, I went up to the club to see if my friends were up there and what activities they had planned for the evening.  We were going to play charades again, but I wanted to write this entry first, which meant I needed to go to the bridge to find out where we were.  Actually, according to the information I got, we should be leaving the Butler Passage right about now, so I will wrap up.  After I went to the bridge, I went back to the club and told me friends what I learned and said that I’d see them down in the lounge in about an hour.

I got myself ready for pipe and entry and walked back through the lounge, where Vanessa was sitting with her parents.  They smiled/waved/greeted me in some manner, the details of which escape me.  I pointed to my laptop and smiled back at them, the meaning of which was clear.  I lit up my 2012 Christmas Pipe and proceeded to write this entry.  As I was writing, I saw the same two staff members from yesterday walking laps around the deck, this time in the opposite direction.  It is very interesting hearing every fourth minute of a conversation.  Having seen me writing on my computer two nights in a row now, they asked if I was writing a book.  I said that it was something like that.  They finished their laps and said that they’d see me here tomorrow.  I’m sure they will.  On that note, I will now close so that I can publish this entry and find my friends and see what the rest of this night has in store.

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