Mission

“These are the voyages of the traveler Steven. Its five-year mission: to explore the strange world, to seek out life and civilizations, to boldly go where few men have gone before.”

When I set out to see the world, my goal was to check off a bunch of boxes. I set some goals, got a full-time job, added some more goals, learned that taking 50 vacation days a year was not considered acceptable, figured out how to incorporate all of the goals I set, and had at it. My goal was never to explore new cultures, yet that is what these voyages have become. I have started to understand foreign cultures, but I have learned one fundamental truth. Human beings are, for the most part, the same.

Monday, August 15, 2016

Rio 2016: The Experience - Day 10 - The Return Journey

8/15/16 (Rio 2016 Day 10), “The Return Journey”

En route, NYC Taxi 7E41


“It’s been a great trip, but it’s good to be home.”  Isn’t that what I always say when I land at Kennedy after an extended trip?  Well, no, not this time.  That’s because I’m not home.  Home is Maracana Stadium where the Opening Ceremonies were held.  Home is the Olympic Aquatics Stadium where I saw Phelps’s final race.  Home is the Rio Olympic Arena where I saw our “Final Five” gymnastics team completely obliterate the competition.  Home is the rooftop where I wrote so many of these entries.

I have seen all the events that mattered most to me, and I have left Rio, calling this trip the GOAT, but the Games of XXXI Olympiad are not over.  I will be watching Phase 2 from various devices in New York and Scarsdale, and, while the coverage will be better, it will not be the same, though I will get to discover new venues and hear Bob Costas’s introductions once more.  As for the Return Journey, well, it was mostly unadventurous.

After I closed on the roof, I headed down to pack.  I quickly realized my souvenirs would not even come close to fitting in my suitcase.  I took out a bag of Rio 2016 souvenirs to hold in my hand and overstuffed my suitcase with everything else.  It fit, barely.  Our car was soon ready for us.  It was a short ride to the airport, and it was a bit of a process to check-in.  We said our goodbyes as Raymond went to his flight, and I went outside to light up a Bolivar Brazil Exclusivo and write the “GOAT” entry.  After the cigar, I proceeded through security and emigration.

They then did something that brought more tears to my eyes.  They stamped my passport with the Rio 2016 Olympic Logo.  My passport now has the Olympic Rings in it.  Oh.  My.  Fucking.  God.  I got some stuff from duty-free, including a box of Brazilian cigars and their cachaça.  I don’t know how I’ll make a caipirinha during the games, though I suppose I could get some kind of lime juice from Coca-Cola.


I kept wanting to buy more stuff, but my hands were full, and I was worried about not being able to take everything on the plane.  I did get a hot dog though, which was terrible.  It was the first time I had eaten all day.  I was going to get something at the Olympic shop, but they only took Visa, and I didn’t have a Visa card.  I was almost out of Reals, too, and they didn’t take Dollars.  As I headed to the gate, I caught a glimpse of myself in the mirror.  With my suit and Team USA hat and pin, I must have looked like a Team USA official or something.  I had no trouble boarding the plane or getting my bags overhead.

I had been assigned a middle seat, and, as I got situated, I saw a couple standing next to me, trying to figure something out.  I quickly realized that they had the window and aisle seat.  They asked if I would take the window seat so that they could sit together.  Gladly.  I then realized I recognized this adorable couple.  I asked the man, who was sitting in the middle, if I had seen him at swimming at few days ago.  He offered me his hand and said that I had a good memory.  I shook his outstretched hand, and he asked, "Were we dressed like assholes?"  They had been wearing American flag jump suits.  “You were dressed like an American flag.”

We chatted about the Games, how we booked our packages, what events we saw, and such until after we took off.  He told me that they were live-streaming the Olympics on the in-seat entertainment.  I watched a runner from South Africa obliterate Michael Johnson’s World Record in the 400m.  That was a record that seemed destined to stand for quite some time.  Then came Bolt.  He got a slow start, but then, he, well, bolted, and he made it look like he was running against a bunch of school kids.  He became the first man to ever win the 100m three times in a row and secured his claim to being the GOAT sprinter.  Dinner was a very good beef dish.

After that, I fell asleep, waking up in time for breakfast, which was orange juice and a very disappointing croissant.  We landed before 6 AM, and border control actually wasn’t opened yet, so they held us for five minutes.  When I got to Global Entry, there was a longer line than I had ever seen, but it moved quickly, and I cleared border control with no issue.  That was it.  I was home, or, more accurately, I was back in the United States.

I headed to the taxi line and grabbed a taxi back to my apartment so that I could reorganize and watch some Olympics before work.  In the taxi, I grabbed my laptop and proceeded to write this entry, which I will now close, along with closing out this trip, though I will likely still write during the Games, as I did during the Sochi Games.  Next stop: Mexico City and Oaxaca with Roberto for Labor Day weekend to see the last of the World Heritage Sites in Central Mexico.

Sunday, August 14, 2016

Rio 2016: The Experience - Day 9 - "All Good Things Must Come to an End"



8/14/16 (Rio 2016 Day 9), “All Good Things Must Come to an End”
Rio de Janeiro, Brazil (Olympic Equestrian Centre)

As Chaucer wrote nearly a millennium ago, all good things must come to an end.  Even this epic trip.  I don’t want to leave.  I really don’t.  I actually felt a physical gut-wrenching pain as I took the taxi to the equestrian venue, realizing that my time at the Games was coming to an end.  I am now at qualifiers for one of my favorite events, the show jumping, and it hurts knowing that I will watch the Finals on my cell phone, but it hurts even more, as it does at the end of every Games, knowing that the Games will soon be over.  Closing ceremonies are a week from today, and that will signify the end to this glorious Games.

The good news is, while this Games is coming to a close, the Winter Games in Pyeongchang are just a year and a half away, and the Games of the XXXII Olympiad in Tokyo will be in four years.  In a few hours, I’ll be at the airport analyzing every detail of the trip and reflecting and making such statements as, “I am forced to conclude that this was the greatest trip I have ever taken,” or similar superlatives.  Then, tomorrow morning, I’ll be back at the office, and, tomorrow night, I’ll be watching Bob Costas’s introduction and hearing the Bugler’s Dream for the first time this Games, as I see the familiar iconic shots of Rio playing over his introduction.  That is how I will experience Phase 2 of this Games.

After I closed, I headed back to the room, and I literally fell asleep as I was publishing.  I woke up and finished publishing.  Raymond had already left for Golf.  I got dressed for the day, figuring I might as well dress for the part: my dark blue polo shirt, cargo shorts, and high bright red socks all courtesy of Ralph Lauren accompanied my Nike black sneakers and light blue Team USA hat.  I was definitely dressed to watch the horses.  I was running late, and I figured, wrongly once more, that it would be quicker to take a cab.  Once more, I got stuck in traffic, but I didn’t care.  There were only two names that mattered to me: McLain WARD and Beezie MADDEN.  They were the last two riders for Team USA.  I’d be good on time to get there and get situated in time for McLain’s round.

The taxi dropped me off outside the military checkpoint, and I walked to the equestrian venue.  I got my pin and, fortunately, found a showjumping beer cup, not really caring that I was having a beer for breakfast.  I found a seat, and there was plenty of time before McLain came up.  When it was his turn, I stood up by the railing to get a good view.  He had a good round, only having one small jump penalty.  After his round, I returned to my seat, where I proceeded to write this entry, which I will now close so that I can, I think, have a cigar before Beezie comes up.


I’ll save the superlatives for the airport, but I think I already know how it will pan out.  I don’t have much to report, but I wanted to write one last entry from my spot before I flew home.  Whenever I spend a significant amount of time in the same place, I like to think about the way I will always remember it.  For Yellowknife, it was the rock behind the hotel.  For Granada, it was the view from my balcony where I spent so much time, likewise for the patio in Saint Vincent.  For Rio, it will be two things.  It will be that view of the pool from behind the railing, where I was so frequently recorded.  It will also be this spot, this view from the roof of Christ the Redeemer.  Just one last entry here.  Then I will pack and do the proper reflections.  If I have time, I will also post some photos before I leave, but all good things must come to end, and this is the last time I will experience this view.

After I closed, I headed out for a cigar to pair with the rest of my beer.  I was shocked how packed the venue was.  Even Swimming wasn’t this crowded.  I really only cared about seeing Beezie, so I was quite content to have my cigar and beer at the picnic tables before her turn.  When she was about to come up, I headed back inside and found an even better seat.  I stood by the railing to watch her do her thing, and I think she rode clear, or maybe she had one penalty.

I waited until the last French rider before leaving.  He fell off his horse.  “The joy of victory, and the agony of defeat,” I said to myself as I was leaving the venue.  It was a long and arduous process to get back to the hotel.  The light rail was packed, and people kept walking up and down the aisle selling snacks and drinks, including beer.  After a very long ride, we were finally at Central Station.  I transferred to the subway, and I was soon at Largo do Marchado.  I realized that check-out time had probably already passed.  Hopefully, they would let us use the room for the afternoon.  My key didn’t work, but they reactivated it, so I was fine.

The W Vault finals were going on, so I watched that as I started packing.  Simone gave two exception vaults and secured her third Gold of the Games.  I then headed up to the roof and sat down in my usual spot, where I lit up a Partagas and proceeded to write this entry, which I will now close so that I can try to upload some photos if I have time and then head to the airport.  Farewell, sweet Rio, but I’ll be watching you for 7 more Days when I get home.


Rio Galeao – Tom Jobim International Airport, Brazil (GIG)


Ah, now for the triumphant airport entry.  It was a great trip.  It deserves a great entry.  As is my tradition, I will treat the Return Journey in its entirety tomorrow, but I believe that my reader only has question for me at this point.  Was this trip the GOAT?  How shall we answer that question?  Let’s start by examining the other contenders.  I see only the National Parks of the American West (NPAW), Eurotrip, and Alaska as the possible contenders.

I believe that Antarctica and Israel were similar trips that fail instantly in comparison to the epicness of this trip.  They were both trips of comradery of familiar and repeated locations, but I never once felt so much at home in Israel as I did inside the venues of the Games.  With Antarctica, the Harbor of Rio de Janeiro gives Antarctica a run for its money, but partying every night was what made the trip what it was.  This trips fails in regard to both Israel and Antarctica in that regard, but there were plenty of epic nights, and the nights I spent at Swimming more than make up for the lack of all-nighters.  I will also eliminate my first trip to Greece because being at the Games must rank higher than seeing the sites of the Ancient Games.

I will similarly say that my first trip to Euro when I was younger fails against my more recent Eurotrip.  The road trip I took with my mother last summer, our Last Great Summer Road Trip Adventure, fails against the NPAW.  Alaska, though, while fun and beautiful, also seems to fail against Eurotrip.  It was epic, and we hit everything, but it did not seem to quite measure up to either NPAW or Eurotrip.

That just leaves NPAW and Eurotrip.  NPAW has been, ever since I took it, an unchallenged GOAT trip.  Only Eurotrip came close.  The thing about Eurotrip, though, was that it had no magical moments.  It had a truly great moment almost every day or night, but nothing that would count as a top ten.  It was the 18 Days of everything working out in the end that made it so epic, the first extended international trip I took on my own, all of that was what made it what it was.  I saw 100 sites, and I hit them all, including 10 countries.  That was the epicness of it.  It is very difficult to compare that to nights like last night.

I can compare last night to New Year’s Eve in Port Lockroy, and I think last night wins.  I can’t compare it to the joy of being perfect on Eurotrip.  That was my Phelps in Beijing.  The Munich Run was my 100m Butterfly.  However, everything I did in Europe, I could have done again if I missed.  Seeing Phelps’s last race is something that can only happen once.  That is something that I can tell my kids, my grandkids even.  “Daddy (or Pops), who was the greatest athlete of all time?”  “Sonny, there once was a swimmer named Michael Phelps.  He must have been half-dolphin.  No one ever swam the way he swam, and he was the greatest athlete who ever lived.  Now, let me tell you about the best night of my life, or, at least the best night until I met your mother (or grandmother).  It was in Rio de Janeiro, during the 2016 Olympics, and I saw the last time he ever raced.”

That was just one of so many magical moments this trip.  Not great, magical.  I will also add in that Rio is a Natural Wonder of the World and also has a New7 Wonder.  My Eurotrip brought me to zero of those.  Further, being at the Opening Ceremonies easily beats out all the other Stadiums I visited that trip combined.  It is for those reasons that I am forced to conclude that this trip beats out Eurotrip.

Now, the question becomes, which trip was better, this one or NPAW.  If Eurotrip was Phelps in Beijing, NPAW was Phelps in Athens.  It was my first truly great trip.  It was the trip that opened my eyes to America the Beautiful.  It brought me to the Grand Canyon, a Natural Wonder of the World.  That first morning, when I woke up, and ran outside the cabin to see the Grand Canyon, that is comparable to the Opening Ceremonies, it is even comparable to seeing Phelps’s GOAT race.  Is it is comparable to any single moment of any other trip, save one.  Last night.

Seeing Phelps’s last race and the magic of the denouement is the strongest claim to GOAT that this trip has.  Nothing, other than certain drunken misadventures, especially my last few NYE celebrations, even comes close to last night.  I will remember that for the rest of my life.  However, that night on its own is not enough to unseat NPAW.  We visited six other National Parks besides the Grand Canyon.  I had moments that trip that I still remember, including a certain donkey ride down a canyon or running through the scenery, pretending to be Butch Cassidy or the Sundance Kid.

I am not going to match up those moments one to one against the magical moments of this trip.  How do I compare the donkey ride to day at Sugarloaf we spent with the girls?  How do I compare our low-gas run to Canyonlands to watching Simone and Aly finish 1-2 in the All-Around?  How do I compare seeing the Grand Canyon to watching Phelps become the GOAT?

Here’s a much better question, if, during the Sydney Games, someone had come up to me and told me everything that 15-year-old phenom would accomplish over the next 16 years, and I could see him in person in Rio like this and that, when the end of 2016 came around, I would be in Sydney, saying that I had visited every Olympic Stadium, or I could discover America the Beautiful, visit all of our National Parks, see everything this wonderful country had to offer, from sea to shining sea, which would I choose?

I’m fortunate that I am getting to experience both, and I never thought during the Sydney Games that either of them would be a remote possibility.  The Olympics and the National Parks are two of my greatest loves, but which do I love more?  That is the only question.  It is not an easy question to answer, not at all, but I think the answer should be obvious to anyone who has both endured the Games of the past 16 years with me and travelled to various National Parks with me.

What is the answer, then?  I believe my reader knew the answer to this question as soon as I started writing this entry.  Cue the “Bugler’s Dream.”  It is for that reason, that I have no choice but to conclude, this trip was the GOAT.

Rio 2016: The Experience - Day 8 - Winding Down



8/13/16 (Rio 2016 Day 8), “Winding Down”
Rio de Janeiro, Brazil (Olympic Stadium)

Our trip is winding down.  In fact, a good portion of the day will be spent packing.  Tonight is the last night of Swimming, and Athletics are starting and will take its place as the marquee races of the Primetime Coverage on NBC.  If I was watching at home, I would consider this the end of Phase 1 of the Games, and I would be preparing for some intense Days of watching with as many as six screens up at a time.  That is not how I am experiencing this Games.  I will experience Phase 2 from home, instead, as our trip is now winding down.

I’m sure we will have a few more adventures, and those will be recorded in due course, but today will be the last day of medal races that I watch.  We are now at the Athletics venue, and I will see the last night of Swimming later, but this will be our last full day in Rio, and we intend to enjoy it to the fullest, despite the rocky start it has gotten off to.  I am a firm believer in, all’s well that ends well.

After I closed, I published my entry and went to sleep.  We slept in as much as we could and not miss the beginning of Discus.  I got ready and found Ray downstairs at the breakfast area.  I was hungover af.  I needed coffee.  Badly.  I had one cup, and we figured it would be quicker to grab a taxi to the venue, so we could finish our coffee.  I also got a cup to go.  Well, we figured wrong.  My navigation app informed me of three different spots of traffic.  Our driver managed to hit them all.  We also went to the wrong entrance.  It was quite a process to get in.  Long story short, we missed the first two rounds.  After three rounds, the field is reduced to eight for the final three rounds.  Nothing was going right.  I just wanted to sit down.  Ray insisted on standing at the railing.  The American had been eliminated in the third round.  Finally, the sixth round came around, and a German had an epic throw, claiming the gold medal position from the Pole who had been holding it all day.  That was that.

We headed out to get beer and souvenirs.  I found a beer station that had five Beach Volleyball cups.  I needed that cup.  Badly.  There was a long line.  There was one cup left with one person in front of me.  It was like the marble rye, to use another Seinfeld reference.  Well, guess what, she took the Beach Volleyball cup.  They actually had an Athletics cup, so I settled for that.  We tried to find the souvenir shop, but it was apparently at the base of the stadium.  We found some seats in the first level in view of the 100m race, where I sat down and proceeded to write this entry, which I will now close, as Usain Bolt will be doing his heat shortly.


One day, I will be able to tell my grandchildren that, over the course of 52 hours, I saw Simone Biles give one of the most dominating all-around performances of all time, that I saw the greatest athlete of all time in the race that earned him that title and in his final race, that I saw one of the most dominating swimming performances ever by swimmer in the 800m, and that I saw the fastest man in the world run in the 100m.  That is what I will remember from this trip.  I also saw Kerri Walsh dominate in the sand.  I saw the “Final Five” prove that no one else could compete.

To supplement my other travels, I saw a New7 Wonder of the World every morning and night from my hotel, and I was situated in one of the Seven Wonders of the Natural World.  Will this trip be the GOAT?  Only time will tell.  I have exactly 13 months left in this Travelogue.  Over those 13 months, in addition to this trip, there are four upcoming trips that could contend to be the GOAT, or at least top five.  Those are “Because It’s There”, Australia, Greenland, and Hawaii.  Those will all be epic, and they will certainly be more mobile than this one.

Okay, so, after I closed, Bolt did his thing.  The entire audience, or at least my section, was facing the giant scoreboard and taking pictures of the scoreboard.  Seriously?!?  You are in the stadium.  I don’t care how far away he is.  You fucking watch him, not the same video you could have watched from home.  He dominated his heat.  We then headed out, stopping at the souvenir shop on the way, and again at another souvenir shop for Rio T-shirts.  I was about to pass out.  With some difficulty, we found a taxi, which took us back to the hotel.

When we got to the room, but the cleaning lady was there.  I crashed on the bed while they finished, and then I fell asleep after they left.  Ray had gone out and was dealing with some drama via text with “my girl” from last night in re: he and his girl abandoning us.  I told him how to respond and then went up to my entry-writing spot on the roof, where I proceeded to write this entry, which I will now close so that Ray and I can enjoy our last evening together before I head out to Swimming.


The greatest trip of all time?  The answer is no longer, “Maybe.”  It’s, “Probably.”  My reader should know by this point that I never finalize assessments like that until I’m at the airport ready to fly home.  It is also a very tall order to say that a trip could beat the National Parks of the American West trip or my Eurotrip.  However, for now, I will say, to use Olympic parlance, this trip is guaranteed a medal.  I will determine what color it is at the airport tomorrow (or maybe even after the Olympics so that I’ve had time to make a rational assessment).

That said, tonight very well may have been the best night I of my life that did not involve copious amounts of alcohol, such as my misadventures at NYU or various New Year’s Eve celebrations.  I don’t even know what else would come close.  There are nights that are great, there are nights that are wonderful, and then, every once in a long while, there’s a night that’s pure magic.  Tonight fell into that last category.  It is a night I will remember for the rest of my life.  In fact, it is, along with the day lit version of this vista, is how I will always remember Rio and, by extension this Games.

I will not find much sleep tonight.  That’s okay.  I can sleep on the plane.  I just need to watch some horses jump tomorrow and pack before my flight.  I need to record every single detail of this night before I go to sleep, and I want to publish it, too.  I will stay out here as long as it takes to record tonight in full detail.

After I closed, Ray and I got to talking to a flight crew of a private jet.  He was going to see Golf tomorrow.  Raymond wanted to see Golf.  He was hiring a driver to take him back and forth and offered to let Raymond join him.  That happened.  Meanwhile, the Australian rowing coach from Night 1 wanted to hang out.  I had Ray tell her where we were going for dinner, and we could all make arrangements to hang out later, and I would meet up after swimming.  I would also alternatively see if I could meet up with the girl from yesterday.  Either way, I had options, some of which would have been more publishable than others.

We headed out to the restaurant, a place called Casa da Feijoada, a place where they serve feijoada, Brazil’s national dish.  It is a bean and meat stew made with, among other ingredients, the ear, tail, and foot of a pig.  They do a whole family style service, but Ray wasn’t hungry, and I hadn’t eaten all day.  We got there, and told them I wanted the food, and he only wanted the drink.  I also got a caipirinha.  It tasted like my hangover, so I barely touched it.  The food was, to say the least, interesting, and the accompaniments may have been the best part.  It was something I needed to try before we left.  I was, once more, running short on time.

Phelps’s race would be at the end of the night, but the first race was at 10:03 PM, and I was risking missing that.  Well, I got to the venue, once more, just as the swimmers were entering the arena.  I figured I’d be able to catch it.  I figured wrong.  Like the first night, my ticket had been relocated.  I wasn’t going to sit in my assigned seat anyway, but I still needed to get a new ticket printed.  That cost me the race, the W 50m Freestyle.  We got silver, so, like last night, I didn’t miss much.  Next was the M 1500m Freestyle, which, quite frankly, is like watching paint dry.  I got my beer beforehand, finally finding my Beach Volleyball cup.

I found a seat in the front row, exactly centered wh
ere I want to be.  I had an obstructed view for the 1500m Free, but it meant I would be where I wanted to be when I stood up for the medal ceremonies and the two relays.  Some Italian guy won, pulling a Katie Ledecky in the process.







Then came the medal ceremonies for the first two races.  Then it was time for the relays, the 4 x 100m Medley Relay for Men and Women.   Our girls won their race, Australia in second, Denmark in third.  Then it was the guys’ turn, and that’s when the magic started.






Phelps came out to thunderous applause for his last race.  The order of the medley is backstroke first, of course, followed by breaststroke, butterfly, and freestyle.  We had a good squad.  I believe we had a medalist from the 100m standalone version of each race, and two of those medals might have been gold.  I liked our chances.  Team GB in Lane 4 was our only real competition.  What a race it was.


It started Ryan MURPHY setting a World Record in the 100m, but we lost that lead and more during Cody MILLER’s breaststroke, whereby the Brit put in a WR split, beating the previous record by over a second.  Phelps was half a second behind when he entered the pool.  I recorded his whole split on video.  He is a fucking beast, a god perhaps.  He turned that half-second deficit into a half-second lead, and, taking his place was none other than Nathan ADRIAN.

Like a champ, Adrian held that lead, and Team USA won Gold on Phelps’s last race.  I cannot even begin to put into words how happy that made me.  I could barely eke out my “USA!!!  USA!!!  USA!!!” chants through my tears of joy.  This will go down as one of my greatest Olympic moments of all time, and I was there to watch it in-person.




Then came the medal ceremonies.  The girls were up first, and, out walked 12 of the most beautiful women I have ever seen, from Denmark, USA, and Australia.  I think the Australian women were the most beautiful.  One them looked up at me and smiled.  I figured that I was just imagining things.  Then, later, she looked directly at me again, batted her eyes, smiled, and looked away.  What was going on?!?  Reader, this moment was captured on national television.  A link to the medal ceremony should be readily available at the NBC Olympics website.

Team USA got their Gold medals, and then came the national anthem for the first of two times tonight.  I sang along, of course, and I was practically the star of the NBC feed.  After the national anthem, all the girls from each individual stroke type, girls who had raced each other multiple times, congratulated each very affectionately and sincerely.




Then there was a long delay before the guys came out, which led to a lot of booing.  Meanwhile a professional photog was standing next to me.  He asked if he could switch with me, as he wanted the dead-center post.  I didn’t care.  I just wanted to be close to Phelps.  Then he came out, and the crowd went wild, especially some drunk locals, including one guy who kept shouting that he was the second best swimmer of all-time, only after Phelps himself.  Phelps wasn’t having any of it.  At one point, he looked at them, gave them a thumbs up, and sarcastically shot back, “Thank you, I appreciate all the yelling.”  I had also yelled at him a few times that he was the greatest athlete of all time.  He didn’t acknowledge me.

When they handed him the Gold medal, I could literally see a tear fall out of his eye and drop onto the ground.  Then came the national anthem, and I sang along for the last time in Rio.  Then they stepped down, and Phelps faced away from the cameras to hide his tears.  He was practically facing right at me when that happened.  We were both crying.



Now what to do?  Try to pursue one of my “options”?  See if I could meet up with Ray?  Or stay there?  I didn’t want to leave that Stadium.  I wanted to remember that for the rest of my life.  I also realized that, if anything unpublishable happened, I would remember the night for the unpublishable stuff as much as for Phelps’s last race.  I didn’t want to dilute the magic of the night in any way.  I chose to just stay there, and that’s what I did, stood in my spot for an hour of denouement.  My photographer friend was standing next to me uploading his shots.

All the volunteers on the floor below started taking group pictures, then the photographers took a group picture.  Everyone was just so happy, and it was just such a fun thing to watch.  Also, the women on the Tokyo swim team posed for a group photo, each putting out 2 fingers with their right hand and making a 0 with their left hand, signifying that the Games would be in Tokyo in 2020.  Then they spelled out Tokyo 2020 with their bodies and hands.

After that, the stadium was almost empty.  I took a selfie, and my photographer friend asked me if I wanted him to take a picture.  Of course I did.  Like a pro, he expertly shot my picture, taking several different shots.  He asked if they were alright.  I told him he was the pro, I’m sure they were.  He found that quite amusing.




Then came the Team USA Swimming group pictures.  The whole swim team was there, everyone from the “Call Me Maybe” video, incluiding Missy FRANKLIN, Allison SCHMIT T (Phelps’s BFF), Ryan LOCHTE, and, of course the man himself.  There was also the new crew, including Katie LEDECKY, who locked very different with dry hair, and Ryan MURPHY.  It was amazing to see them together.  Everyone was so happy, and they were all having such a great time.  After the group photo, the coach told them that they needed to report to the USA House between 11:15 AM and 12:15 PM for doping tests.  He also warned them about some muggers on the beach.  Then they were dismissed, and they fooled around some more.

I took a selfie when Phelps was angled kind of towards me, and Lochte seemed to be having the most fun at all.  My friend was convinced he was gay, but I knew him to be dating a Playboy Bunny.  Now, I’m not so sure.  Everything about the way he talked and his mannerisms was, well, flaming.  He took pictures of some of the girls for them, and it was completely flamboyant the way in which he did it, even the way he said to them after a couple of photos, “Okay, now make out.”  Then they lifted him up.  That was fun to watch.

Everyone left the stadium, and then Omega sent two divers into the pool to retrieve all the timing equipment and cameras.  That was fun to watch.  I had interest in leaving.  I would have slept there if they let me.Then they started breaking down the lane lines.  Rolling up the buoyed lane line markers onto giant spindles, it was quite an event to watch.



After they fully broke down Lane 5, the lane for Team USA in that last race, I decided it was time to go.  I did not want to do anything else.  I just wanted to get home and write this entry about this magical night.  I hadn’t heard back from Raymond, but I didn’t care.  We both had to get back to New York eventually, and he was quite capable of figuring out the rest of the trip on his own.  The stadium was locked up at that point, and I had to go out the media entrance.  It was quite a process to figure out how to exit the Olympic Park from there, but I managed.  I had to overpay for the taxi ride due to the late hour (well past 1 AM), and, I watched the races and medal ceremonies on my phone during the drive.

When I was near the hotel, Raymond messaged me that he was at the hotel.  I went up to the room, and he told me that he had in fact met up with the rowing coach, but his phone died.  I wouldn’t have wanted to leave the stadium to meet up with them, but I was slightly annoyed that he didn’t ask her, with whom I am connected on social media, to let me know what was going on.  We talked a little about our nights, and then I headed up to the roof and sat down in my usual entry-writing spot, where I lit up a Romeo y Julieta and proceeded to write this entry, which I will now close so that I can publish and hope to get a few hours of sleep before the show jumping tomorrow.  It is magical nights like this one that make this trip such a stronger contender for the GOAT.

Friday, August 12, 2016

Rio 2016: The Experience - Day 7 - Familiar Locations, New Adventures



8/12/16, “Familiar Locations, New Adventures”

Rio de Janeiro, Brazil


As I have mentioned in numerous entries, the theme of my Travelogue is finding the familiar within the unfamiliar and experiencing the unfamiliar within the familiar.  While the Olympics and my Olympian heroes is an all-too-familiar experience, I am experiencing this Games in a completely unfamiliar fashion.  However, also, as I have previously mentioned, while going to an Olympics is an unfamiliar experience, I am finding the familiar in the similarities between attending the Games and attending Comic Con or a similar convention.

Today, though, we things became even more unfamiliar as we returned to locations that had become familiar to us and experienced the locations in unfamiliar ways.  When we headed out this morning, I knew this would be the theme of Day 7, but I did not realize just how adventurous our day would be become.

Not everything that occurs during a trip makes it into the Travelogue, and some of the omissions are because they are, as Ernest Hemingway would say, “unpublishable.”  Certain aspects refer to one individual I might not want reading what I write about him or her, but I bank on burying such things so deeply in the Travelogue and my confidence that said person is not a regular reader of my Travelogue.  Other things simply cannot be published at all and become confined to my personal journal.  Today was filled with the latter.

If I was George Costanza, today’s entry would read, in part, “We headed out to lunch, and after lunch, I began to perceive this impending…intestinal requirement, whose needs surpassed any desire for activities, so we stopped at a coffee shop.  While I was I washing my hands, a woman walked up to me and asked if I was from the United States.  Yada, yada, yada, I missed Phelps’s race by a minute.”  However, that’s not my style.  I will attempt to, um, sanitize, this entry as much as possible for publication.  I believe a simple recording of the facts without commentary will serve for most of the entry.

Okay, so, after I closed, still engrossed in my debate with my friend, it was 4 AM by the time I finished publishing and got to sleep.  We slept in, and tried to strategize for the day.  Our plan was to head out for lunch, have a cigar on the beach, go back to the hotel for another cigar, then go back to Fogo do Chao for dinner, then walk to the cigar store, while we smoked cigars, to get some more cigars, then I would head to Swimming.  For the most part, that is what happened, but it happened in the most unexpected way.

I had brought my computer bag with me in case I wanted to do an entry on the beach.  We stopped across the street for lunch, getting their sausage dish with rice and beans.  Now, I know my readers have objected in the past when I record the emptying of my bladder and bowels, but, such activities form an essential part of today.  Almost as soon as we left the lunch restaurant, I had to go to the bathroom, badly, in both ways.  I wanted to go back to the hotel, but Raymond wanted to keep walking.

As we got close to the beach, my intestinal requirement was becoming an emergency.  We wound up stopping at a coffee shop.  Now, I need to go into a little more detail.  My best friend and I are trying to keep count of my Official Us for the trip.  In order to get credit for the Official U, I must, among other things, be standing up.  That requires, well, that I not combine my intestinal need with the Official U.  In fact, they must be separated by a full hand wash.  Either order is acceptable, the U first or second, but they must each get their own hand wash.  Again, reader, all of this is completely essential to what happened today.

Okay, well, the intestinal requirement was too urgent to allow me to take the Official U first.  I took care of that first and headed out to wash my hands.  There were two wash basins, and a women’s stall to the left and a men’s stall to the right.  As I was washing my hands, I heard someone asking me if I was from the United States.  She had come out of the women’s stall.  I told her I was from New York.  She was from Detroit.  Great.  I still had to take that Official U, and I had to take it real bad.  I could not hold it in long enough to sustain a conversation.  I finished washing my hands and went back in to take the Official U.  Okay, so I figured I’d never see her again, all because of that Official U count.  I also knew that my best friend would get a huge kick out of this story.  I did not know how much more interesting the story would get.

I then went to rejoin Raymond, and guess what?  He was talking to Miss Detroit and her other friend.  They wanted to come to the steakhouse for dinner tonight.  In fact, they wanted to hang out with us all day.  Well, la di da.  We headed down to the beach, and we agreed we’d meet up and exchanged numbers.  From here on out, I will refer to the girl from the wash basin as “my girl” and the other girl as “Raymond’s girl”.  Well, logistics were a bitch, and we later learned that not all of our messages were going through.

Raymond and I went to the beach after getting our coffees.  We lit up cigars, a special edition Hoyo de Monterrey for me, and took some ceremonial pictures.  My girl messaged me to say that they were going to the shopping mall.  I asked which one, but she did not respond.  It turned out, my messages were not going through.  Raymond and I walked along the beach and, well, that’s when things started to get even more interesting.  We saw a football goal without a net.  Raymond wanted to practice his high bar or uneven bar routine.  He cut himself on the post.  He needed an adhesive bandage.  He raced ahead of me to the point where I lost him.  I realized that I was on the beach right in front of the shopping mall at that point.  I decided I would wait there.  I had no way of reaching Raymond, since he doesn’t have international service.  Reader, isn’t this a fun story?

I was about to go back to the hotel.  I soon heard someone say, “Hey.”  It was my girl, with Raymond’s girl in tow.  I explained the situation.  Raymond messaged me.  He went to Fogo do Chao to ask for a bandage.  It was not far.  Okay then.  I told the girls what happened, a story they found all-too-amusing, and we walked to meet him.  They wanted to go up the cable car to sugarloaf.  Most of the misadventures my girl and I got into are unpublishable, but we took solace in the fact that they would not arrest American tourists for such minor missteps during the Olympics.

We eventually wound up at Sugarloaf, drinking very heavily for the next two hours, almost nonstop.  The views from the top were breathtaking, and we paired off, Raymond and I each lighting up a cigar again, a Montecristo for me, sharing the cigars with our girls, before breaking up and exploring the mountain in pairs.  Eventually Raymond said he was going down, but it was unclear if he meant down the stairs from the bar or all the way down the mountain.  Yada, yada, yada, I didn’t see him again for 9 hours.

Meanwhile, my girl and I got into more misadventures before we headed back down the mountain, stopping again for another drink.  We were both utterly and royally toasted at this point.  It wasn’t even 7 PM.  She had invited her host to join us for dinner.  It would apparently just be the three of us, and my girl promised to impress me with how much she could eat.  She took great pride in the amount of food she was capable of consuming and still maintaining an average body type.  She preferred that to eating a more moderate amount of food and having a skinny body.  I respect that.  It is at this point that more of the unpublishable stuff transpired.

We had another drink at the bar while we waited for our table.  Her host soon joined us.  We got our table for three, and the two of them put me to shame in how much they ate.  I suppose due to nerves, or because of all the fruit in our drinks, I had lost my appetite.  Also, I was anxious about missing Phelps.  His race was at 10:12 PM.  It was 7:40 PM when we sat down to dinner.  I was vigorously timing everything, and I was also debating if I should just give her host the ticket so that the adventures that occurred instead would have been truly unpublishable and watched the stream on my phone or on TV.  I was seriously debating it, but it was Phelps, in his last individual race.

My girl kept saying we’d meet up later, that the event only went until 11:30 PM, and that we could just meet up after that.  Reader, without analysis, I will just highlight on fact.  We had been drinking, heavily, almost nonstop for four hours.  She wanted to meet up four hours later, at which point I did not expect her to have drank any less over those four hours than she did over the four hours we were together.  I also knew with a high level of confidence that if I went to Swimming, “my girl” would likely no longer be “my” girl.  It was Phelps.  In his last individual race.

After we could no longer eat another bite, we took the subway, and they got off at Ipanema, as we made plans to meet up after the Swimming.  My girl’s phone had died, so I had to communicate with her host, who still had a solid 70% on her charge.  I was still debating handing her the ticket.  We said our goodbyes, and I went back to calculating.  It would be a true Munich run, at the Olympics, for Phelps.

Once I got off the bus, I ran and ran.  I was outside the venue, and I heard the cheers indicating the swimmers were entering the arena.  I ran some more.  I heard another cheer.  The race would last about a minute.  I got inside the arena, only to see the swimmers at the end of their race.  I had just missed it.  “Did he do it?” I asked the first person I saw.  He held up two fingers.  Phelps had come in second.  In fact, it was a three-way tie for silver.  I had missed that.  Fuck.  It was all for naught.  I could have left the girls earlier, or I could have stayed with my girl and given the host the ticket.  What I did was the unhappy middle.

Though, I suppose, it was kind of better this way.  I will see his final race tomorrow, which should be an easy Gold for Team USA, so the way I will remember Phelps at these Games will be his GOAT win last night and his relay tomorrow.  I did not have to see him come in second, instead only finding out about that secondhand.  I had no time for souvenirs or concessions or an entry.  There were two more races to come, and the medal ceremonies.  I headed straight to the railing for most of the rest of the session.

Katie LEDECKY, my new crush, won the 800m Freestyle in commanding fashion, almost 2 seconds under the WR and half a pool length ahead of the silver-medalist.  Her name has now become a noun, as in, “to pull a Katie Ledecky.”  A 36-year-old from Team USA repeated his 2000 win of the 50m Freestyle, which was quite an accomplishment.  There were four medal ceremonies.


The Phelps ceremony, he stood beside the other two silver-medalists and the gold-medalist was at the top.  The other three ceremonies led to our national anthem being played.  I messaged the host, and she said they were heading to Lapa, so I got a taxi there, which actually had to take me past my hotel.  I was getting tired at this point and almost called it all off.  I asked her what bar they were going to.  No response.


When I got to Lapa, I called both of them.  Neither picked up, and the host’s phone went straight to voicemail, which meant it was probably dead, too.  Well, that was that.  I texted her and waited around for a bit.  No response.  I took a taxi back to the hotel and reorganized myself in the room a bit.  I then headed up to the roof, where I proceeded to light up a Partagas and write this entry, which I will now close so that I can publish and get to sleep.  I guess I will try to meet up again with her tomorrow, as we are going to Athletics in the morning, which is right by where they’re staying.  I can make no promises of what will and will not be publishable if that is the case.