Mission

“These are the voyages of the traveler Steven. Its five-year mission: to explore the strange world, to seek out life and civilizations, to boldly go where few men have gone before.”

When I set out to see the world, my goal was to check off a bunch of boxes. I set some goals, got a full-time job, added some more goals, learned that taking 50 vacation days a year was not considered acceptable, figured out how to incorporate all of the goals I set, and had at it. My goal was never to explore new cultures, yet that is what these voyages have become. I have started to understand foreign cultures, but I have learned one fundamental truth. Human beings are, for the most part, the same.

Monday, September 4, 2017

American Oceania - Days 2, 3 - The International Date Line

9/3/17, “The International Date Line”

Daniel K. Inuoye International Airport, Oahu, Hawaii (HNL)

In my travels, I have been to some far-out places and planned many trips that could quite objectively be reffered to as insane.  I have dealt with logistical challenges of a level that surprised even myself.  I have gone where Google Maps say roads do not exist and found sites that are not on any map.  I timed things to the minute and charted out trips with a level of detail that to this day I still cannot comprehend how I managed to keep it all straight.  In all of these trips, nothing has ever tripped me.

Today, I meet my match.  It is such a simple piece of geography, yet, it is a nigh insurmountable obstacle.  I am referring to the International Date Line.  It is now a little past noon on Saturday local time.  I am 6 hours behind New York time.  I am about to take an 8-hour flight to Guam, and, when I land, it will be Sunday evening local time.  I will then be 14 hours ahead of local time.  That I comprehend, losing time during a flight is familiar.  However, coming back is what still confuses me.

When I travel, the most basic unit is a Day, and everything hinges on what I do on which Day.  What, then, happens when I lose one Day and another Day repeats itself?  I do not know how to process this information in my mind without contradiction.  I have two hotels booked for the night of September 6, one in Saipan, the other in Hilo.  It will be something like 20 hours from the time I leave my hotel in Saipan to the time I arrive in Hilo, but the clock will register the same time.

This does not make sense.  I have confidence in the flights and hotels I have arranged, but I still do not comprehend what I have done.  To further complicate things, it is now Day 2 of the trip, and this is the last time I will have to publish an entry, but it would be premature.  Even combining the events so far today with what will occur tomorrow on Day 3 is barely enough for one full entry.  What then happens on September 6?  Does September 6 get covered twice as two entries, Day 5 and Day 6?  Day 5A and Day 5B?  I do not know.  It is very confusing, but like every obstacle the past five years of travelling has thrown at me, I will face it and figure it out.  It is just that nothing has ever confused me as much as this simple piece of geography known as the International Date Line.

After I closed last night, I soon went to bed, slept fitfully again, and woke up a few minutes before my alarm.  I was on a VERY tight schedule this morning.  I would not be able to enter the National Park boundary until 7 AM, and the headquarters would not open until 8 AM.  My OGG-HNL flight was at 10:38 AM.  Every minute counted.  I needed to be at the NP boundary exactly at 7 AM, and I needed to time my visit to the summit so that I was back at Headquarters (at the entrance) exactly at 8 AM.  I made some coffee, packing and getting dressed as I drank the coffee, and I was in my car at 6:35 AM.

I lit up an Oliva and started driving, seeing cars that had gone for the sunrise driving back down now.  I just cared about the stamps.  I got to the park entrance at 6:59 AM.  I couldn’t have timed it better.  They let me in, and I was at the top around 7:20 AM.  I got my stamp and souvenirs and hiked up the trail to the viewpoint by the VC, lighting up an OpusX for the climb.  I was rewarded with a magnificent vista and was back in my car at 7:45 AM, five minutes behind schedule.

It was slower going down than up, and I arrived at Headquarters at 8:09 AM.  I got my stamp, which meant I had successfully gotten every stamp at Haleakala National Park and drove to the airport with the rest of my cigar.  The drive went quickly enough, and I soon saw the coastline, signifying I had reached sea level after just having been at an elevation of 10,000 feet.

I was at Hertz at 9:10 AM, which was perfect timing for my 10:38 AM flight.  In fact, I even had time to spare at the gate before we started boarding.  Hunger was now starting to be an issue, not having had any breakfast other than some candied coconut, but I didn’t have enough time to get any food.

The flight from OGG-HNL was short and unadventurous, made even shorter by coffee and some chips.  When I landed, I learned that I would need to take a shuttle bus to the international terminal.  I wanted to get lunch, but I wasn’t hungry enough to have a large lunch, and I couldn’t find anything small.  I figured that I would be able to get a sufficient snack at the United Club once I got to the international terminal.  I waited almost 30 minutes for the shuttle bus before learning that there were customs issues and it could be a while before a shuttle bus was ready for the international terminal.  I also learned that I could walk to my gate in about 15 minutes.  I almost flipped my shit.  If I had known that, I would have just walked right away.

When I got to the United Club, they had a decent spread, enough for a filling snack, and I helped myself some food, along with a soda and double gin.  Perhaps I should have had the gin after my snack, as drinking an empty stomach was a bad idea, and the gin went straight to my head.  After I ate, I sat down by the gate, where I proceeded to write this entry, which I will now close.  I will not publish until I get to Guam so that I can combine Days 2 and 3.


9/4/17
Tamuning, Guam


I am sitting in a smoking bar filled with members of the Armed Forces, and, by the way people are smoking and drinking, laughing and smoking, and singing along to the oldies, you would have no idea that this island is at a very real risk of being hit by a nuclear missile.  For me, not even the threat of thermonuclear war made me consider changing my itinerary.  I am here in Guam, and, pardon my French, but Kim Jung-Un can suck it.

When civil war broke out in Syria, I cancelled my planned trip there, but visiting Damascus was not mission-critical.  Visiting Guam and Saipan are mission-critical, and the mission always comes first.  I am here, and I have two activities that I must do before I can leave the island and fly to Saipan.  I need to visit War in the Pacific National Historical Park and take my picture in front of the legislature, along with getting my souvenirs.  That will be done before lunch, and it will give me the rest of the day unplanned before my 8:30 PM flight to Saipan.

Guam was always one of those places that seemed more mythical than real to me.  I always knew that I would include this as part of the trip, in fact, when I told people about the trip, I would lead with Guam, as it is the most recognizably exotic place I am visiting this trip.  “My parents are sending me to Guam after I graduate” was a lot better of a conversation starter with a classmate than, “I’m going to Hawaii for my 30th Birthday.”

I am here now, and I feel like I am in a scene from a bad war comedy, in one of those bars that servicemen go when they have a night out.  I am out of place.  I am not a local.  I am not a member of the military.  I am not here to get married or golf or dive.  I am here to check it off my list.  I have now claimed 3 of the 5 inhabited US Territories, and this trip will bring me to the other 2.  It has been an epic evening, but I am fading, so I will recount the details of this abbreviated Day 4 so that I can make my way back to my hotel.

After I closed at HNL, I went to my gate, and we soon boarded.  When I got on board, I saw something that I had never seen before.  Half the seats in business class were backwards, including my row.  I assume they had a reason for doing this, but it felt very awkward sitting backwards on an airplane.  I rested my eyes until we took off, and, once we were in the air, I started better sorting my photos and pulling my Mexico WHS photos, which was working quite nicely.

I had a minor panic attack when I realized that I only had 30 out of the 34.  I went through the list of all 34 sites and confirmed that I had visited all 34 before realizing what was missing.  My trip to Oaxaca was not in the folder.  I knew that I could easily pull the photos from the cloud, so my panic was averted.  Lunch was beef short rib, and I went to sleep not long after the meal, catching a full REM cycle or two.

I woke up as were making our descent into Guam and saw a huge complex of buildings that could only be the military base.  When we landed, I had another panic as my bag took much longer to come out than it should have, but it came out, and I went through border control.  Yes, Guam has border control.  I took a taxi to my hotel, resituated myself, and then walked into town to get dinner.

I lit up a Cohiba for the walk and took a ceremonial picture on the beach, but it was too dark to be usable at this point, civil twilight having ended.  I opted for a place called Proa, and it had a nice selection.  Island-style BBQ chicken, red rice, and a local beer would do quite well for my first Official meal in Guam.  It was delicious, but I could only manage half of it.  I waited for too long for the waiter to clear my plate, but he made up for it by calling me a cab.  I finished my cigar while I waited for the cab, and then I heard something that sounded like an explosion.  The car in front of me was smoking, and two people got out of it laughing.  They looked under the hood to no avail and tried starting it again, also to no avail.  My cigar was done and my cab was there, so I had lost interest.

The cab took me to a cigar lounge called Mac & Marti.  The humidor was disappointing, and I was hoping they would have Cubans, but they did not.  I opted for an Aging Room, which I paired with a special edition Talisker.  It was a good combination, and I enjoyed myself, taking in the lively scene.  I was quite sure that I was the only guy in the bar who was not a member of the military, and the only girls seemed to be, if I am using this term correctly, uniform bunnies.  After my cigar, I lit up my trusty Ardor and proceeded to write this entry, which I will now close so that I can publish, post my photos, and go back to my hotel.

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