Mission

“These are the voyages of the traveler Steven. Its five-year mission: to explore the strange world, to seek out life and civilizations, to boldly go where few men have gone before.”

When I set out to see the world, my goal was to check off a bunch of boxes. I set some goals, got a full-time job, added some more goals, learned that taking 50 vacation days a year was not considered acceptable, figured out how to incorporate all of the goals I set, and had at it. My goal was never to explore new cultures, yet that is what these voyages have become. I have started to understand foreign cultures, but I have learned one fundamental truth. Human beings are, for the most part, the same.

Monday, September 18, 2017

American Oceania - Epilogue

9/17/17, “Epilogue”
Aboard HA 50, En route HNL-JFK

“How was it?”  “Did you have fun?”  “You look like you got some color!”  “You have pictures?  “You’re making me jealous!”  Those are the questions and exclamations that will await me when I get back to New York tomorrow and over the next few days.  However, the questions I will pose in this Epilogue will be of a much stronger variety.  All trips must end with a reflective entry and a recording of The Return Journey, which this Epilogue will provide, along with providing a brief overview of the past few days, which will be intended to set up the next stages of my travel writing.

To me, though, of far more importance is what I call the final reckoning.  To that end, I must pose two simple questions.  Was this the best birthday ever?  Was this the best trip ever?  To both questions, without so much as a moment of hesitation or need for any debate, the answer is, “Abso-fucking-lutely.”  What could even come close?

I think perhaps the previous best birthday was when I went to Victoria Falls.  That trip was amazing.  My first trip to Africa, and I loved every minute of that trip.  The part of Africa I went to was one of the most beautiful places I had ever seen.  I saw one of the Seven Natural Wonders of the World and then spent the day seeing wildlife at Hwange National Park.  I walked across the border to Zambia to have my birthday dinner there, which was, by far, the cheapest birthday dinner I had had in recent memory, but it was good, so good.

I wrote in that entry how I was alone, but happily alone, as opposed to the year before when I was miserable in a relationship.  I wrote in that how much better it was to have two female friends whom I loved as sisters than it was to have a girlfriend who was causing me an untold amount of stress.  The name of that trip was “Wildest Dreams,” due to the fact that the recent Taylor Swift music video was apparently filmed there.  Not even in my wildest dreams did I imagine that one of those two friends would accompany two years later on what would become the greatest birthday trip of all time.

That trip was a perfect trip.  I was at complete peace.  I was in a very good place in my life, and nothing was bothering me.  I wish I could say that about the past year, but I cannot.  However, I can say that for the past five days I have pretty much been at complete peace, that I gladly traded my pipe and entry-writing each night for watching reality TV, that I gave up a few extra NPS units in exchange for a worry-free five days, that I didn’t care what was on the itinerary, or even if there was an itinerary, so long as I was having fun.  And fun I had.  A lot of fun.  More fun than I had ever had in my life.

Or perhaps not.  There have been other trips that have been fun, maybe even more fun, but it was a different kind of fun.  It was antics and hijinks and building the kind of inside jokes that remain funny for a lifetime.  I do not wish to compare the fun of prank calls and “walking slowly” to the fun of drinking and smoking on a beach until nothing else matters in the world or achieving pure nirvana by doing the same in a hot tub.  They are different kinds of fun.

I suppose this leads me to my next question, now.  Was this the best trip ever?  The previous title-holder was Rio 2016.  The highlights of that trip were the Opening Ceremony, seeing the Natural Wonder of the World in the Harbor of Rio de Janeiro, seeing the New7 Wonder of the World in Christ the Redeemer, and, of course, the Games themselves, days at the Gymnastics venue and nights at the Aquatics venue.

I will never forget those nights that I saw Michael PHELPS and Katie LEDECKY in the pool, and least of all will I forget that last night when I stayed until they broke the down the entire swimming pool area.  I will not forget cheering on the Final Five as they dominated the gymnastics venue.  I will not forget Aly RAISMAN and Simone BILES proving that they were absolute maniacs on the floor.  None of that I will forget.

That said, nor will I forget any moment of this trip.  After the highly fulfilling 11 Days that led to me being able to say, “Mission Accomplished,” it was followed by the most enjoyable five days of my life.  I knew that successful execution of the first 11 Days on its own would be sufficient for this trip to be considered the Greatest of All Time.  Further, the past five days celebrating my birthday on their own would have been sufficient, but they were not on their own.  They were combined into one trip that is, without a doubt, the GOAT.

I have recorded the first 11 Days in great detail, and I will give a brief description of the rest of the trip later, but in terms of the final reckoning, of the past five days, which, as a whole, were the best five days of my life, of the 11,000 days I have been alive, the top three days of my life were all on this trip, two of the travel days being more stressful and time-draining than anticipated.

The past five days of celebrations were filled with beach days, a sunset cruise, even a proper Hawaiian luau, and, of course, great feasts and plenty of drinking and smoking.  It would have made any Hobbit proud.  Even Bilbo himself could not have done better.  Those are not things that are normally associated with my travels, other than the smoking, of course.

Sure I have had great meals in my travels, but, unless it’s an iconic restaurant or a first Official meal, usually I eat on my trips for sustenance, to provide nourishment for the next activity.  The meals on this trip were to try new places, to eat whatever we wanted, when we wanted.  The drinking was to have fun, to make all of the activities that much more enjoyable, in contrast to my usual travels where I will just have a drink with dinner or one at the end of the day with my cigar or pipe to relax.

There were no new Stadiums or Stamps or Plaques once I said, “Mission Accomplished,” and my reader will note the difference between what I am recording in this Epilogue and what I have been recording in the entries I have previously written in this Travelogue.  The first 11 Days of this trip, was the epitome of my typical travels, and they were a remarkable success.  The past 5 Days were the most enjoyable of my life.

As much as I love the Olympics, how could Rio 2016 possibly compare with American Oceania?  The simple answer is, it can’t.  American Oceania wins against Rio 2016, it wins against National Parks of the American West, it wins against Eurotrip, it wins against Alaska, and it wins against anything else that might try to claim that title.  It was, without a doubt, the GOAT, in every way, shape, and form.

Now, some reflections are in order, both about this trip and the mission as a whole.  In this trip, I discovered a new way of travel, one that I would not have done on my own.  Hawaii had a few NPS units that I left on the table, and, had I been on my own, I would have used these past few days to visit each and every one of those units.  I would not have gone to the beach.  I would not have taken a sunset cruise.  I would not have gone to a luau.  I would have missed out on all of those things in exchange for bumping up my NPS unit count.  I would not have had so much as a quarter of the amount of alcohol I had, though I probably would have had four times as many cigars.  I, quite simply, would not have had fun.

I had fun.  I was in paradise with my best friend.  We did whatever she wanted, and for that I was glad.  I did not have to worry about setting an itinerary, or holding to one.  I did not have to worry about getting my stamps at VCs before they closed.  In fact, during the non-travel days, I did not have to worry about anything.  This was a trip of pure celebration, and it was very expensive trip, for which I am incredibly thankful to have been gifted as a joint graduation/birthday present, but when I spend my own money on travel, I do it in service of the mission, to get my Stamps and Plaques, to steadily increase my counts of countries or WHS or NPS units or whatever else I’m counting.

I choose not to spend my own money on relaxing.  I can relax in my apartment for the price of a cigar.  I can relax almost anywhere the stresses of my life cannot follow me.  I do not need to spend large sums of money on flights and hotels to relax.  When I go to Morocco, I will not spend four days in Casablanca.  I will spend the trip trying to visit every WHS in the country.  When I go to Curacao, I will not spend the day on the beach, I will spend it visiting the WHS there.  When I go to Thailand and Cambodia, I will not spend it on resorts.  I will celebrate New Year’s in Bangkok and then spend the rest of the time visiting my WHS.

That said, there will be trips in the future that are similar to this, and I have learned that, with the right person, I am willing to spend money on a vacation that is not designed to increase my count.  Next summer I will take the Trans-Siberian Railroad from Moscow to Vladivostok with another friend, a week on a train with only the potential for one new WHS the entire ride.  That will be a trip for us to relax, and it will be a good use of my money.

My friend and I have discussed making this an annual trip, a different island in the Pacific every year.  She lives in LA, and there are no shortage of islands with direct flights from LAX that would make for a nice meeting place for us.  While I will be able to claim a new country on each trip and visit whatever WHS the country has, if it has one, those trips would be designed like these past few days, to celebrate and relax, not to maximize the number of new countries and WHS I can visit.

I would see those trips as a good use of money, the same as I see the Trans-Siberian Railroad and African Safari trips I am planning with my other friend.  Those would all be trips designed to relax, and I will include more trips like that in my future travel planning, now that my mission has been accomplished.  That said, I will set new goals, manageable goals that won’t drain all of my time, energy, and money, and most of my travels, as far as I can foresee, will be in service of those new goals.

I have enjoyed this mission very much.  I have enjoyed maintaining my spreadsheet.  I have enjoyed planning these trips, almost making an art out of it.  It is a unique skill, and a finely honed one at that.  I will continue to use that skill as I finish visiting all of the NPS units in the country, but my trips will be fewer and further between now, as I want to save money for my future, and I want to start working on building that future.  Traveling the world for the past five years has been fun, but it has been draining, and it is no way to work on building a future.  I do not know what my future holds, but a burden has been lifted after this trip, in more ways than one, and, whatever my future holds, I am ready to meet it head on.

Now, I suppose my readers would like a bit of detail on the end of the trip and the birthday celebrations, so I shall oblige, but in so doing, I will preview what my travel writing will look like in my 30s.  This picks up after I closed at HVNP.  Getting caught in the rain, I raced to put away my laptop and walked around a bit to take more pictures.  More rain as I was publishing, but publishing the entry was more important than the laptop’s survival.

I then went back to my hotel, the Volcano House, which offered breathtaking views of the crater, got some souvenirs, and had lunch.  My lack of appetite from the beginning of the trip continued throughout my time in Hawaii.  A few bites of fried fish, a little rice, poke, and a tiny coconut dessert, along with coffee, at the hotel restaurant served as lunch.  Then I had time to kill, and lots of it.

I lit up another cigar and went for a hike to see the steam vents, glad to be getting in a proper hike.  I still had time to kill before I had to drive to the airport to pick up my friend.  I was actually bored.  I waited as long as I could then got ready and drove to the airport, intending to stop at Target to pick up a new pair of shorts so that I could ditch the cargo shorts that had served me so well for the past year and on this trip but were now too big.  As I was driving, I got sideswiped by an SUV who was trying to pass me.  He kept driving.  I thought about calling the police, but I was afraid they would tell me to wait for them, which would have meant being late for the pick-up.  I chased after him and got his license plate.  I kept honking at him and flashing him and signaling him to pull over.  He did not and kept going.

I found a pair of shorts at Target and was soon at the airport.  I patiently waited for my friend, excited to see her again after not having seen her since we planned this trip on the first of the year.  Then, there she was.  We greeted like the old friends that we were and waited for her luggage.  It was going to be a week to remember.  When we got in the car, she blared music from “Lilo & Stitch” and “Moana,” because what else would we play.  We had dinner at the hotel, ordering a crab cake appetizer and a bowl of edamame, the two small dishes to share serving as our entire dinner.  This would be a common theme throughout the trip.

I was in Hawaii with my best friend, I had just completed my five-year mission, I was about to turn 30, and we had five days together to celebrate.  Nothing could go wrong, and nothing did.  We went for a nature walk to see the lava venting up, and it was a completely serene experience, despite the fact I slipped and cut up my leg and foot pretty bad on the rocks.  When I say that nothing went wrong, I do not mean that absolutely nothing went wrong.  Plenty went wrong, of course it did, but it was the little things that went wrong, not the big things.  It was the little stresses, not the big ones.  Nothing went wrong that in any way spoiled the trip.

When I think about Rio 2016, I do not think about losing my ticket the first day.  When I think about National Parks of the American West, I do not think about missing our connection to Vegas or the fight about going to Denny’s.  I think about waking up and seeing the Grand Canyon.  I think about the crazy drive on an almost-empty tank to Canyonlands.  When I think about this trip, I will always think only of the good things, not of the little stresses, not of sunburn and scraped knees.

The next day was my birthday, and we woke up for a nice buffet breakfast at the hotel, followed by a drive to see the coastal side of the park.  This was when the fun began.  The top went down and the cigar was lit.  Music blaring, we drove to the coast.  I was now showing my favorite person in the world my favorite thing to do: visit a new World Heritage Site.  We found great viewpoints, and we ignored whatever warning signs we saw, and we made an adventure out of it.  Then came the rain, and the up went the top and out went the cigar.

We flew from Hilo to Honolulu, where I would celebrate my birthday dinner in what led to that day being called, “A Long-Expected Party,” another Lord of the Rings reference.  Getting the car was a hassle, in no small part due to the language being set to French, and we stopped at a place called Ono Seafood to get poke bowls on the way to the hotel.  We were staying at the Trump International in Waikiki, and we both agreed when we got there that Donald was a better hotelier than he was president.

First we went to a place on Waikiki Beach called Duke’s Barefoot Bar.  As we walked there, we saw these sunset booze cruises, which we both instantly agreed we had to do the next day (having the hotel concierge later arrange it for us).  In fact, as we ordered two rounds of strong island drinks, we joked that we would be going on a four-day bender.  It was then that I knew that this would be the best birthday celebration ever.  I am quite sure we consumed more calories in the form of alcohol and sugar this trip than we did in terms of actual food, given how little we ate.

Dinner was at Hy’s Steakhouse, Hawaii’s “most iconic restaurant,” which would mark my 27th out of the 51 restaurants on the list (50 States plus the District of Columbia).  Our lack of appetite being a common theme this trip, we ordered a scallops appetizer and a beef wellington, along with mushrooms, all to share, that serving as our entire meal, but those were their specialties, and they were beyond good.  To drink was a bottle of sparkling Hawaiian rosé.  I was glad to have someone to help me with that, after spending my previous birthday celebrations drinking local alcohol alone, Bermudan rum in 2013, Andorran wine in 2014, Zambian and Zimbabwean beer in 2015, and Tuscan wine in 2016.  Cheesecake and bananas foster serve as dessert.  The meal, from start to finish, was beyond amazing, and this was just the beginning.  We had two full days plus the two travel days left in the trip.

The next day was our first beach day, but, first, morning activities of breakfast and a spa treatment.  As I said, Donald doesn’t mess around.  I’ve had a lot of great hotel breakfasts, and this one was certainly comparable.  We were both glad that we would get to go back there the next morning.  An assortment of hot and cold food served us both well.  Then came our spa treatment, which wasn’t exactly my thing, but it was a new experience.  It was now time for our first day at the beach.  We went to the local store for snacks (pineapple and Macadamia nuts, of course) and liquor (rum, of course).

We then drove up to Lanikai Beach on the north side of the island, top down and music blaring, of course.  I was loving every minute of this.  Now, my readers know that I am not much a beachgoer, but this was fast becoming the best day of my life.  I am not a fan of water, but I am a fan of anything I can do with alcohol and a cigar.  Being here with my best friend, celebrating my 30th birthday, made it all the more better.  This was the best day ever.  I don’t say that lightly.  It was.  The day went by too fast, and we didn’t even have lunch, just a little bit of our snacks.

It was time to go back to Waikiki for our sunset cruise.  Now, drinking on a boat with a friend was not a new experience for me, but it’s one that never gets old.  This was Thursday night, and, in New York on a Thursday, I would go out for dinner and a movie with a friend.  That is exactly what we did.  We went to a seafood place by the theater called Niko’s, and we still hadn’t found our appetite.  We ordered two appetizers and a main, again, all to share, and we barely ate half of what was served.  The movie was the Stephen King horror movie “It.”  We saw it at Regal Dole Cannery, which is considered the most haunted place in Hawaii.  I’m sure my reader knows that I would not have done this on my own, but the movie was great.

The next day was a travel day, and it was entirely too stressful.  We enjoyed the Trump breakfast again and then drove up to see some Polynesian gardens, but we couldn’t go in, as we realized once we got there that we were risking missing our flight.  When we got to Maui, we were staying at the Kohea Kai Resort in Kihei.  We smartly decided that we would do a late lunch instead of dinner.  We went to Coconut’s Fish Cafe where we got coconut shrimp, which we had been wanting to get all trip, along with fish tacos.  We finally hit our stride and got the perfect amount of food for our second meal of the day.

Then we overdid it.  We went to Maui Pie for dessert, getting two slices of pie to share.  It may have been the best pie we ever had.  We stocked up for the morning and went back to the hotel, watching more reality TV, which had become a daily activity for us, before going for a sunset walk on the beach.  That last part I would have gladly done on my own.  Cigars and sunset and walking go very well together.  My cigar went out while we were walking, so I saved it for when we went to our hotel’s hot tub later.  That was when I achieved pure nirvana, sitting in the hot tub with my cigar and drink was beyond perfect.

We lamented that we only had one full day left, but we were determined to make it the best day of the trip, and not only was it the best day of the trip, it was the best day of my life.  Out of 11,000 days, this was #1.  Breakfast at the hotel was a letdown, but it didn’t matter.  Our appetites were getting smaller by the day.  We went to Makena Beach and spent the day much the same as we spent the previous beach day, drinking and smoking and running out of fucks to give about anything that was going on in our lives back home or, for that matter, anything happening anywhere in the world besides that beach.  Eventually, the elements got the better of us and we decided to call it a day.  Back to the hotel to get ready for the grand finale of the trip: a proper Hawaiian luau.

The end was here, but it would be an end worthy of memory.  It was, to be sure, an evening to remember.  We stopped in Lahaina town to do a little light shopping before heading to the Old Lahaina Luau.  It was open bar and a buffet with exquisite local food, including the iconic roast pork.  We drank and took pictures and had the time of our lives even before dinner and show started.  We went to the buffet, and I made a plate with a little bit of each.  I wasn’t even that hungry, but it was so good that I ate every bite.  Then the show started, a traditional Hawaiian dance show, and it was a spectacle on par with Gandalf’s fireworks.  It was the perfect way to end the trip.

That brings me to today.  Travel days are always stressful, and this one was more so due to the fact that we had to make our connections back home at HNL.  After a meager breakfast, having eaten too much last night, we headed back to Makena, this time to find the famed Secret Beach at Makena Cove, but we only had enough time there to took a few pictures.  We struggled to make our OGG-HNL flight and actually almost missed it, but, once we were seated on the flight, the stresses evaporated, only to be replaced by the hardest part of the trip, as we began saying our goodbyes.

This was the perfect trip, and we had such an incredible time together, that ending our fellowship was extra painful, but all good things must come to end, and we had to return to our separate lives on our individual coasts.  We picked up foodstuffs for ourselves and as gifts for others before heading to her gate, as her flight was first.  I dreaded the moment that I knew would soon come, the final goodbye.  I didn’t want to go back to New York.  I didn’t want this trip to end.  I didn’t want to say goodbye.  The boarding announcement came too soon, and we said our goodbyes.  My flight boarded soon after, and I got on knowing that now the trip had finally come to an end.

Only this Epilogue remained to be written, and I spent about three hours writing it, my dinner uneaten as I wrote, despite the fact that I have barely eaten all day.  I am proud of the job I have done in this Epilogue, just as I am proud of the accomplishment of my five-year mission.  I now feel that I am ready to face my 30s head on, and I am excited to see what this decade brings.  I do not know where I am going on my next trip, so I cannot close this trip in the usual way, but I can now declare this trip closed with this Epilogue, and I have already closed out the Travelogue itself, other than this Epilogue, so we will need to see how I wind up recording my travels in my 30s, but this document, after 1423 pages and 1,156,950 words is now closed.

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