Mission

“These are the voyages of the traveler Steven. Its five-year mission: to explore the strange world, to seek out life and civilizations, to boldly go where few men have gone before.”

When I set out to see the world, my goal was to check off a bunch of boxes. I set some goals, got a full-time job, added some more goals, learned that taking 50 vacation days a year was not considered acceptable, figured out how to incorporate all of the goals I set, and had at it. My goal was never to explore new cultures, yet that is what these voyages have become. I have started to understand foreign cultures, but I have learned one fundamental truth. Human beings are, for the most part, the same.

Sunday, January 29, 2017

Taos: The Return - Day 2 - Thwarted Again


1/29/17, “Thwarted Again”
Albuquerque International Sunport, New Mexico (ABQ)

By the time I close this entry tonight, this Travelogue will be 1,000,000 words long.  That is, a million words that I have typed into the Word document that I have saved on my laptop.  That is not a small amount.  The entire Harry Potter saga, all seven books, was less than a million words.  This document is not even four years old.  It relates everything that has occurred over my travels, the good, and the bad.  It relates the challenges I have faced, and I have overcome many of them and failed at overcoming others.  It has many triumphant airport entries at the conclusion of trips, but that is not what this entry will be.  This entry will, unfortunately, be mostly the bad, and it will relate challenges that I could not overcome.

When I wrote at the end of my last trip here with Connor, I said that “I shall return,” but I said it triumphantly, in celebration of the (mostly) successful trip we had together and the sites we would see in the future.  The one biggest failure of that trip was that the stamp was broken at Taos, and the Plaque was not up yet.  My readers know how important stamps and Plaques are to me.  I would need to return to Taos, which was the purpose of this trip, to get the stamp and see the Plaque.  Well, as luck would have it, Taos was closed in its entirety today.  No stamp, no Plaque.  I was thwarted again.

In fact, that seemed to be the theme of this trip.  There were five sites we set out to visit this trip, and three of them wound up requiring a return visit.  This was not a successful trip.  It was a failure.  I will need to return, and then, at last, if all goes well, I will get me Stamp and Plaque at Taos and visit the other sites I need to see to say, “New Mexico Complete.”

I have to blame myself for planning this poorly, though the main site, Taos, was unavoidable.  The website clearly said that it was open today, and I checked both when I booked the flight and again yesterday.  However, Capulin Volcano NM, the closure was surely announced before I left, and Valles Caldera, I could have called ahead to learn that the brochures weren’t ready.  If I had known that, I could have planned a trip that only visited the sites that would not necessitate a return visit while also including Gila Cliff Dwellings NM in the trip.  I will return, though, either in March or May, and I will be properly prepared that time.  Okay, so how did this disappointing and frustrating day go?

After I closed last night, we got toasted and attempted to have a good time, despite Connor’s insistence on blasting music from his phone that I found jarring and annoying, despite my frequent pleas for him not to play anything at all.  Apparently his idea of a good time did not take into account what bothered me.  Instead, I wound up just scrolling through my phone, doing my best to ignore the loud music, as we drank our whiskey without talking.  We went to bed right at midnight, and we were able to sleep in a bit, as I had overestimated how long the drives were today.  We went to get breakfast, and I got something I had never seen before: a breakfast quesadilla.  It was okay but nothing special, and the coffee was disappointing.

We got ready and headed to Taos Pueblo.  When we got there, we saw the words that broke my heart: TAOS PUEBLO CLOSED.  FUCK!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!   There was a maintenance worker, who said that he thought the Plaque was inside the gate and that the Stamp had been repaired (or replaced), but we would not be able to get either due to the closure.  We would need to return.  What to do now?  It was 10 AM, and we were two hours under budget for the day.

We went the casino, which was only slot machines, but I won a small amount of money, and Connor lost slightly more than I won.  We lit up Caobas and headed towards Los Alamos, which would wind up being the major activity of the day, much to my chagrin.  I just wanted a stamp and a picture, but we would wind up spending three hours there.  I suppose that stress levels were high at this point, as Connor hadn’t included anything he wanted to do on the itinerary, and I didn’t want to go out last night, which he wanted to, and two of the three things I wanted to do so far were closed.  The trip was not going well.

Okay, I am now about to reach my millionth word, so I would like to celebrate this significant moment.  As of writing this, the word “moment” is my millionth word.  It was quite a feat, and I am rightfully proud of the effort I put into this.  When I first wrote in Rosalie, I never expected this document to ever become this large.  It has truly taken a life of its own.

Okay, so we got to the VC in Los Alamos, part of the newly created Manhattan Project NHP.  There was a brief walking route around town, and a science museum at the end of the route.  It would take about an hour to get to the museum, including stops, and the museum would not open until 1 PM.  That would be perfect timing.  We did our business at the VC and then started walking the path.  I lit up a Graycliff, and Connor died me to walk on the frozen pond.  I judged it to be safe enough and took him up on the challenge.  There was no issue.  We took a ceremonial picture after he lit up his Graycliff, too, and then walked around town.

We saw such sites as the Oppenheimer’s home.  It was an interesting tour, but I was the one with the map, and Connor would always walk ahead of me, so I would follow him, only to realize he was going the wrong direction.  He would then get angry at me for not telling him which way to go before he started walking.  I told him that I assumed he knew where he was going.  Stress levels increased.  We eventually got back to the VC and then parked the truck in the parking lot for the museum.  We were hungry at this point, so I suggested we get a slice from the pizzeria next to the museum.  He said that pizza would take too long to cook.  Apparently they don’t have precooked slices in New Mexico like they do in the northeast.

We went to the museum, and, while we had an hour and a half budgeted, I did not think we needed that much time.  The museum was tiny and geared towards kids.  We watched a film, and then went to see the exhibits.  I only needed ten minutes to see the whole museum, but Connor insisted on interacting with every exhibit and reading every sign.  I wanted to get out of there, as I was bored, and he said I was rushing him.  Stress levels further increased.  I spent more time on my phone, even though my battery life was rapidly diminishing.  At one point, he suggested I go order the pizza, and I asked him if he would be out by the time the pizza was ready.  He could make no such promise.  I waited, as I didn’t want to eat without him.

Eventually, we left, and we went to the pizzeria.  He then said he didn’t want pizza.  I was ready to kill him.  He told me to order what I wanted and then walked to the truck.  My phone was at 5% at this point.  This was when he did something that went beyond the bounds of an innocent prank and was downright nasty.  Next thing I knew, the truck was gone.  I called him, and he told me that the truck was where he parked it.  He gave me similar bullshit answers when I tried texting him, even though I told him my phone was almost dead.  Nothing about this was funny, and he would not tell me where he was.  For all I knew, he had driven back to Albuquerque without me.  My pizza came, but I was too stressed to eat.  I ate a quarter of it and then got the rest to go.  I found his truck across the street outside the Subway, and he was inside.  I was furious.  I ate the pizza by his truck and waited for him to come out.

When I got in the truck, I told him that nothing about what he did was funny.  I explained that going out of your way to annoy your travel partner makes him not want to travel with you again.  I said that all he did to do was say, “I’m across the street at the Subway.”  He insisted he did nothing wrong.  We then headed towards our next stop, but the highway had a security checkpoint, which we thought was the lab entrance, so we kept getting lost.  Stress levels further increased.

The drive was scenic, which calmed us both down, and we had to go inside a collapsed supervolcano.  That’s where the VC for Valles Caldera NPres was, and it was all covered in snow.  It truly was beautiful and scenic.  It was a bit of an adventure driving down the snow-covered road, but we made it.  When we got to the VC, we learned that the brochures would not be ready until much later in the year.  Fuck!  They didn’t even have temporary paper brochures.  I had lit up a Vegas Robaina Canada Exclusivo, and I left it out on the porch.

After my failure in the VC, I went to smoke my cigar on the porch while Connor talked to the ranger.   The ranger (did I mention he was armed?) told me I needed to smoke in the parking lot.  Instead, I walked across the parking lot to the Uer.  It was a primitive Uer and very smelly.  While I was in there, I heard a load knock.  I ignored it, knowing the Uer to be locked.  When I got opened the door, I saw the ranger standing at full height, his hand not six inches from his holstered weapon.  “If I told you I couldn’t smoke on the porch, what made you think you could smoke in the bathroom?” he demanded.  “I didn’t even think about it,” I answered honestly.  He reminded me that smoking was prohibited in all NPS buildings, including bathrooms.

Connor soon came out and related the story from his end.  The ranger had told him, “Hold on, I have to go yell at your boy.  If he can’t smoke on the porch, why does he think he can smoke in the bathroom.”  “I can’t control what he does,” Connor had said.   “Don’t worry, I can,” the armed ranger had told Connor.  We too our ceremonial pictures and then got back on the road, towards a place called Battleship Rock.  Connor said that the real reason he wanted to go was that he had hidden a Playboy there in 7th Grade and wanted to retrieve it.  When I reminded him that that would need to go into the Travelogue, we disavowed the story.

We got to the site, and I went to take a picture, dropping my phone in the mud in the process.  I went to pick up the phone, only to drop my water bottle, which was easily cleaned with snow and my shirt.  We walked around a bit, and Connor said the hiding place, which was a cave, would have bears in the winter, so we didn’t go.  From there, we headed to El Pinto for dinner, where we would meet Pete and his girlfriend.  That would technically mark the beginning of the return journey, and my pipe is done, so I will close so that I can write the return journey in its entirety from my usual spot at Gate B5.


Here I am, at the exact same spot where I closed out my previous three trips to New Mexico.  I would say the same bench, but they have slightly reconfigured the benches, so my usual bench is in a different spot, and this bench is the usual spot.  It is a place that is filled with memories good and bad, just as the trips have been a mix of good and bad.  This was a bad trip, but I can hope that the next one will be good.  That’s the thing about failed trips.  For the most part there is always an opportunity to make up for it with a future trip.  That is what led to my epic “Because It’s There” trip.  Hopefully my next trip to New Mexico will make up for this one.

Okay, so I left off as we were driving to El Pinto, which would mark my third trip-ending dinner at New Mexico’s “most iconic restaurant,” my second with Connor and also my second one with Pete and his girlfriend.  We saw the familiar sunset across the Sandia Mountains as we made our way to the restaurant, and I smoke my Avo on the way, which I knew to mean that the trip was coming to an end, none to soon.

I finished my cigar outside by the fire pit, and we got a table.  Pete and his girlfriend joined us soon after we were seated, and we prepared for an epic feast.  I always overeat at El Pinto, and I never regret it.  The heavy food helps me sleep well on the brief flight back to New York.  We got a round of drinks and a big plate of nachos to start.  The four of us couldn’t even finish the nachos.

They were out of the usual red chile ribs, so I opted for the steak, which was purported to be good.  Pete and his girlfriend got a quesadilla to share.  The food soon came, and the steak was dry and overcooked.  I joked to Pete, “If I wanted to get a bad steak for $20, I would have gone to a diner, or an Italian restaurant.”  Pete found the joke quite amusing.  Okay, the usual bench has opened up, so I will switch to it.


Yeah, this view is all wrong, but it feels good to be on the old bench.  It is a bench that holds so many memories for me, as I mentioned above.  The steak was really bad, but I ate it anyway.  Pete didn’t touch the quesadilla, and his girlfriend only ate one of the eight slices.  The nachos were very filling.  We talked and joked and made plans to hang out during their upcoming visit to New York.

After dinner, I got tempted to order dessert, which was plenty for the four of us to share.  El Pinto doesn’t do small portions.  The dessert was a Mexican version of tiramisu, and it was quite good.  After the meal, I changed into my suit, and we said our goodbyes.  From there, it was to the airport.  I wondered if the protests against Trump’s recent immigration restrictions would extend to this airport, but it seemed unlikely.  I got my ticket and went out to the smoking area.

I sat down and lit up my 2011 Christmas Pipe, glad to be back in order this time, now smoking the same pipe I had smoked in Quebec, Port Lockroy, Hong Kong, Everest, Sydney, and Cap-Haitien.  This would be far overshadowed by such locations.  I then proceeded to write the first part of this entry, but my establishing shot was ruined by a news truck parking and putting on its flashers.  Soon, I saw another news crew running by me.  Twitter confirmed that there was a protest going on in the arrivals area.  I would avoid that area, but the establishing shot was ruined.

I wrote anyway, and the truck soon left, allowing me to take a better establishing shot.  After I closed, I went through security with no problem and headed to the gate, where I proceeded to write this entry, which I will now close, along with closing out this trip.  Next stop: Baja with Roberto, so that we can say, “Mexico Complete.” 

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