Mission

“These are the voyages of the traveler Steven. Its five-year mission: to explore the strange world, to seek out life and civilizations, to boldly go where few men have gone before.”

When I set out to see the world, my goal was to check off a bunch of boxes. I set some goals, got a full-time job, added some more goals, learned that taking 50 vacation days a year was not considered acceptable, figured out how to incorporate all of the goals I set, and had at it. My goal was never to explore new cultures, yet that is what these voyages have become. I have started to understand foreign cultures, but I have learned one fundamental truth. Human beings are, for the most part, the same.

Sunday, July 12, 2015

TLGSRTA - Day 10 - The Return Journey

7/12/15, “The Return Journey”

Minneapolis – St. Paul International Airport (MSP), Minnesota

“You can evade reality, but you cannot evade the consequences of evading reality.”  For 10 Days, I have evaded reality.  For 10 Days, I have travelled and journeyed and engaged in quests and adventures, both alone and with my faithful companion, my mother, as we engaged our on last great summer road trip adventure.  By the numbers, 4000 miles of driving, 8 states/provinces, 6 NPS units, 5 World Heritage Sites, 2 different cars, and one trip to remember for the rest of our lives.  For all the hardships and adversity, this trip will go down in the record books as one of the great ones.  It was our last great summer road trip adventure, and it was just as great as any of other ones.

Old Faithful, Yellowstone NP, Wyoming
Well, the Grand Canyon trip is and always will be number one.  Nothing can compare to that, ever.  Is this a close second?  I don’t know.  There were so many other great summer road trip adventures we partook in as I was growing up, the Great Lakes, Tennessee and the surrounding states, New England, and more.  What about all the great summer road trip adventures I did solo or with friends?  Alaska in 2014, Eurotrip in 2013, Missouri and the surrounding states in 2012, Minnesota and the surrounding states in 2013.  Is this really up there with them?  Absoultely.  Top ten to be sure, maybe even top five.  It is not a proper road trip without adversity and car trouble, and this trip was no exception, but more on that later.  First, my reflections.

Two Medicine Lake, Glacier NP, Montana
There is a line in Lord of the Rings, maybe the greatest line in the whole book.  Eomer, a Man, now King of Rohan, is talking with Gimli, a Dwarf.  The Dwarves and the Elves are traditional enemies, but Gimli forged an alliance between the Elves and Dwarves based on his friendship with Legolas and his love for the beautiful Galadriel, who was called the Morning Star.  Aragorn, another friend of Gimli and Legolas, has become King of Gondor, and he is married to the beautiful half-elven Princess, Arwen Evenstar, who is now his Queen.  Gimli loudly proclaims that Galadriel is the most beautiful woman in all the land and will fight to the death anyone who disagrees.  Eomer than says, “Had I seen her in other company, I would have said all that you could wish.  But now I will put Queen Arwen Evenstar first, and I am ready to do battle on my own part with any who deny me.  Shall I call for my sword?”  At that point, Gimli bows low to Eomer and says, “Nay, you are excused for my part, lord.  You have chosen the Evening, but my love is given to the Morning.”

Upper Waterton Lake, Waterton-Glacier IPP, Alberta
There is just so much meaning and depth to that exchange, and it should be one that anyone can relate to.  My mother and I had almost the exact same conversation at the end of our trip.  I was praising the beauty of the mountains, but she was having none of it.  My mother might as well have said, “Had I seen the mountains on another trip, I would have said all you could wish.  But now I will put the lakes first.”  I all but replied, “You have chosen the lakes, but my love is given to the mountain.”  The Canadian Rockies (and the Northern Rockies of the United States and the range in Alaska and the Yukon, since it’s all part of the same), is the most beautiful region in the world in my book.  The Caribbean has nothing on it.   While the lakes were wonderful, it was the mountains that took my breath away.

Lake Louise, Banff NP, Alberta
My mother I did not even come close to coming to sword and axe over that, even if we did over other things, since we both allowed for the beauty of each other’s favorite feature.  However, this was not the most magical part of the trip.  No, that honor belongs to Dinosaur Provincial Park, Jurassic Park: The Experience.  I never get tired of listening to that video I recorded with the Jurassic Park theme.  I don’t know what else can compare to that in terms of the absolute magic of the experience.  Anything I did in Greece with the Olympics?  Maybe something in Scotland with Braveheart?  I don’t know.  I’d have to think about it.  On the other hand, as wonderful as the mountains were, the prairie was boring.  It is the most boring place I have ever been.  Three days in the prairie, and I was bored after three hours.

Dinosaur PP, Alberta
Winnipeg was kind of interesting, but the whole region was a bore.  Just endless grasslands.  No charming beauty.  There are lakes in Manitoba and Minnesota, but I didn’t see them this trip.  Those would be interesting, kind of.  In the past three days, since I left Dinosaur Provincial Park, it was a total bore.  Just a quest for two flag pins and two provincial legislative assemblies.  That is not to say I did not have my share fair of adventure and adversity today, but that will be covered in the en route entry, where I will record the entire return journey, starting from dinner last night, which served as my last activity of the trip.

Manitoba Legislative Assembly, Winnipeg, Manitoba
When I went to Yellowknife, Fort Simpson, and Iqaluit, the tiny communities of Northern Canada, I loved it, the quiet isolation, the woods, the everything.  The prairie held no such magic.  No, to quote Gaston, “It’s a bore.”  In short, Yellowstone, vast and diverse.  Glacier, dramatic and breathtaking, Waterton even more so.  Canadian Rockies, unreal natural beauty.  Dinosaur Provinical Park, a truly magical experience.  The Prairie, a bore.  Okay, more detailed reflection en route.


Aboard DL 1526, En route MSP-LGA

Alright, I have written about how I have evaded reality for the past 10 Days, how I have ventured and journeyed and explored for the past 10 Days.  In 12 hours, I will have to face the consequences of evading reality for those 10 Days.  I will have to deal with whatever awaits me at work, probably working 50- or 60-hour weeks for the rest of the summer.  I will have to deal with whatever mess is in my apartment.  I will have to deal with whatever romantic connections I may or may not have available to me.  I will have to deal with no longer having my travel adventures to distract me from unanswered texts.  I will have to deal with readjusting my finances from this trip.  I will have to deal with any red flags that may or may not have been put on my border control records.  I have a lot to deal with when I get back.  While I have always been a big fan of evading reality, I have also always understood that Rand had it right, that you can evade reality, but you cannot evade the consequences of evading reality.  Alright, so about those top ten trips.  Quoted from 

2/16/15, “Who is John Galt?”
Albuquerque, New Mexico (Old Town)

What are the top five?  In no particular order, the National Park trip I took with my parents a lifetime ago, my Eurotrip in 2013, Antarctica, Israel, Alaska.  Rounding out the top ten might be Greece, the WWI trip, the CA-4 trip, the stranded trip in California during Sandy, and, well can I lump all the 2- and 3-day stamp runs into the tenth place spot?  I love doing those.


I don’t think that the April Lesser Antilles trip made the list, nor would the May Stockholm/Helsinki trip.  This trip, absolutely.  It sure as hell beats, wait, no, all of those trips were so amazing.  How can I say that Yellowstone beats Yosemite?  How can I say that Jurassic Park: The Experience beats Hercules: The Experience?  What else on this trip beat sitting alone in the Temple of Artemis?  What beat the ancient ruins in Tikal?  Can I just say top eleven?  Alright, I’ll do my best to rank them.  Grand Canyon et al number one, Eurotrip number two, Alaska three, Antarctica four, Israel five, Greece, California, WWI, CA-4, then the stamp runs lumped into the number ten spot.  Where does this rank?  If I have to make a decision?  In a week I might second guess this decision, but, for now, I’m saying number four, between Alaska and Antarctica.  I almost put in at number three, but I think Alaska barely holds out over this one, barely.

Wait, shit, Kentucky with my family, when I finally fully considered her to be family, not just a girl my brother was dating, when I saw her as my sister.  That has to count for something, right?  That was when I set out to see the world.  That has to count for something, too, right?  Hmm.  Okay, so maybe the top five is Grand Canyon et al, Eurotrip, Alaska, this trip, and then Kentucky.  No, Kentucky would have to be after WWI, before CA-4.  I guess I can take CA-4 out of the top ten.  Well, ain’t that something?  Top five trips of all time, four of them great summer road trip adventures, including each of the past three.  Ain’t that something?  Antarctica is only number five on my list.  I just realized what I should have called this trip, since I love using song lyrics and titles for my entries: “From the Mountains to the Prairies.”  The song is, of course, “God Bless America,” but it might as be called “God Bless North America,” using Jamaica Kincaid’s definition of North America as America and Canada.  However, a similar song is more apt for this purpose: “America the Beautiful,” which, again, might as well be called “North America the Beautiful.”

For the past three years, ever since that fateful night in Kentucky three years ago, when I set to see the world, I have seen the world, but, more importantly, I have seen North America.  For three years, I have explored, “from sea to shining sea.”  I have seen the Pacific in Malibu, in Juneau, in Vancouver, in Forks.  I have seen the Atlantic on Fire Island, in Maine, in Miami.  I have seen “the amber waves of grain” in Missouri, in Kansas, in Iowa, in Wisconsin, in Minnesota, in North Dakota, in Saskatchewan, in Manitoba.  I have seen “the purple mountain majesties” in Colorado, in Wyoming, in Montana, in Alberta, in Alaska, in British Columbia, in the Yukon.  I have even seen the “alabaster cities,” quite literally from “sea to shining sea.”

This trip represented the last great summer road trip, and there is not much ground for me to cover in the US and Canada.  I guess there are some parts of Texas I haven’t seen, but I will likely be going to San Antonio next year.  I don’t think I have seen the western Carolinas, though that is high on my list.  I suppose I have never really been in the heart of the deep south.  I have thoroughly explored Louisiana and Florida, but that whole Alabama/Mississipi area, I have only been either to the coastal areas or along the border with Tennessee.  As for Canada, it’s just the Maritimes, though there is a WHS off the coast of BC that I need to visit, but that’s a cultural site.  Although, if we really want to get technical, I have never been to the Great Lakes region of Canada.  Wait, I have, Toronto borders Lake Ontario.  Yeah, just the Maritimes.

I’m looking at my travel spreadsheet for the next two years, and, I am practically done with the US and Canada.  Those are the highest goals on my list, saying “US Complete” and “Canada Complete.”  I believe that was the vow I made that night in Kentucky, July 2014.  My brother also told me he was going to marry his girlfriend.  I asked for five years for my goals.  He’s taken three years.  I think I need to work that dig into the wedding speech.  Okay, so what’s left in US/CAN?  For mainland US, after the wedding, it’s just the Carolinas and San Antonio.  Then there is Puerto Rico and the Virgin Islands, along with my 30th Birthday Trip to Hawaii et al.  Canada?  Two trips to the Maritimes, the WHS in BC, and maybe a trip to Toronto to do some checklist items required for “Ontario Complete,” maybe a new Plaque there, too.  That’s it.  And that also concludes my reflections.

So, this return journey?  I fully expected to write about a very unadventurous drive from Winnipeg to MSP.  No such luck, but let’s start with dinner.  It was amazing, but one problem.  I have been to the best steakhouses in New York.  Nothing can beat them, nothing.  Certainly nothing in Winnipeg, Manitoba.  That doesn’t mean I can’t get a good piece of steak.  It just means that if I want a truly celebratory meal, and I was celebrating a successful trip, even without the Manitoba flag pin, I shouldn’t go to a steakhouse.  I should go to something chic and local and unique to Winnipeg.  That was what I did in Fargo, North Dakota two years ago, and it was one of the best meals of my life.  That was what we did in Kalispell, Montana a week ago, and it was great.  That was not what I did in Winnipeg, Manitoba.  (N.b., almost every meal I had had in Canada, besides breakfast, was at an A&W or McDonald’s or Dairy Queen.  This was not a trip where I intended to have great meals.)

The dining room was closed, but they sat me in the lounge, and, since they were in a hurry to close, they brought my food out quickly, which I appreciated.  I ordered a Crown Royal Special Reserve, which is unique to Manitoba, duck quesadillas, which were quite tasty, and the rib-eye.  My reader should know how I like my steaks: rare, almost raw.  This came out medium-rare, but I was not about to send it back.  It tasted fine.  I got a dessert to go, bread pudding.  I then walked back to my hotel, where I proceeded to crash.  My plan was to have a pipe, eat the bread pudding, then go to sleep.  I forewent the pipe, lied in bed for half an hour, then decided to have the bread pudding.  No utensils.  What did I do?  I used two coffee stirrers as chopsticks, which worked, barely.

Okay, so I wanted to be on the road at 9 AM, a hard 9 AM.  If my reader doesn’t recall the difference between soft and hard, soft arrival is when you pull into the entrance of the site, the time your GPS says you will arrive.  Hard arrival is when you park your car, organize yourself, and make it inside the VC or lobby or light up your cigar outside a site.  Soft departure is when you leave your hotel room.  Hard departure is when you are all situated in the car and actually out of the parking lot and on the road.  I figured I wanted to aim to be at the airport at 5:15 PM for my 7:14 PM flight, the drive was about 6:30 without traffic, and I wanted to allow for two hours of Dutch Time, one hour planned (border crossing, meals, checking every gas station for flag pins, etc.), one hour unplanned (getting searched at the border, traffic, tire issues, etc.).  That meant I should have actually been on the road at 8:45 AM, but I figured a hard 9 AM departure would be fine.  I woke up early enough, but not early enough to have a pipe, which I wanted to do on the balcony, and I had no appetite.

I got the local special omelet, but I couldn’t even finish half of it.  I was just too anxious about the return journey.  So much could go wrong with over seven on the road (including stops).  Plenty did.  It was probably 9:15 AM by the time I was on the road.  I stopped at a gas station as soon as I left town, where they had air but no flag pins.  I pressurized the tire again and continued.  I only found one other gas station before I got to the border.  No luck.  I was about to get to the border when I saw the Manitoba welcome center on the other side of the road, so I did a U-turn to get there, which I’m sure would have looked suspicious to watchful eyes.  They had the “Manitoba Welcomes You” sign I had so desperately wanted to see two years ago, but they did not have flag pins inside.  Alright, another U-turn and on to Duty-free.  That was my last best chance for a flag pin.  I asked if they had Canada/Manitoba souvenirs.  She pointed me in the right direction.  There was a spinning display, where they clearly had pins.  There it was.  I grabbed it, held it to my mouth, and kissed the Manitoba flag pin I so desperately needed.  Excellent.  I bought three, along with a bottle of Crown Royal.  Okay, now it was time to cross the border.

There were two officers in the booth.  That was unusual.  Maybe they were doing training.  He asked me the usual questions and flipped through my passport for longer than usual.  I saw him pause on the page with the Iranian visa, and I knew that there would be nothing quick about this process.  He asked some more questions, including how I choose where to travel.  I told him that I like to go the UNESCO World Heritage Sites and explained what they were.  He asked what I went to see in Iran, and I told him I went to see the Persian ruins, all true.  A young male, travelling alone, with a scruffy beard, and passport stamps from Iran, UAE, and Muscat.  Like fuck I raised a red flag.  They closed the booth door, consulted for a bit, and sent me for a secondary.

They devoted four officers to the screening, with a fifth doing some consulting.  The lead officer was top notch, the fast-paced and sharp manner in which he asked the questions made me feel two things: nervous and safe.  I had nothing to hide, other than some Cubans, but I still felt nervous.  I felt safe because I knew that someone who did have something to hide would either break down or act suspicious under his questioning.  They asked lots of questions and took my phone and wallet and had me empty out my jacket pocket, which had eight Cubans, including the Canada Exclusivo I had planned to smoke as soon as I got that flag pin.  He asked if I could look through my phone.  I knew he was being polite.  I didn’t have a choice.  I hadn’t deleted any texts or logged out of social media, but, again, there was nothing on my phone to implicate me, just stuff to embarrass me.  However, he was just looking for photos.  He had asked me if I had any photos besides my tourist photos.  Well, I explained, as a joke, I take pictures of the bathroom fixtures that I use for my Official Us.  He said that was okay.

He then came back a bit later and asked me why there weren’t any pictures from Iran on the phone.  I told him that I back up my photos remotely every month or so to clear space.  I added that, under other circumstances, I would have gladly shared my photos with him.  I was beginning to genuinely like this guy.  Meanwhile, they were doing all sorts of inspections and tests on my car, bouncing it up and down, doing all sorts of swabs, looking for hidden compartments.  Of course, there was nothing to be found.  They soon said I was free to go, but I had to sign a slip of paper acknowledging the confiscation of eight Cuban cigars.  Ugh.

I was on my way, and I stopped for food and gas in Grand Forks, where I had to spend the night two years ago.  I stopped again for food and gas in Melrose, Minnesota, which had the turn-off for Lake Wobegon Trail.  The rest of the drive was unadventurous, until I hit some bad traffic.  It was serious stop and go traffic.  I was going 70 mph when the traffic in front of me came to a sudden standstill.  I slammed on the brakes and swerved to avoid the car in front of me.  It was too little, too late.  I clipped the back of his car, damaging my front bumper.  Fuck, it was the first time I had hit another car since I was 16.  I have driven close to 100,000 miles since then.

We pulled over to the side of the road, and I apologized and asked if everyone was all right.  They were.  We exchanged information, and they ascertained that their car was drivable.  My car was not.  The metal from the bumper was touching the front driver tire.  It would surely slice open the tire at speed.  I tried to pull the metal away with my hands, failing and cutting myself in the process.  The suckiest thing about all of this.  I was perfect on time at this point.  My GPS said an arrival time of before 5:30 PM, and I was only 40 miles from the airport.  I had already done 4000 miles of driving, including the miles my mother spent at the wheel.  Reader, that meant I had gone 99% of the trip, and this truly happened on the home stretch.  I asked the guy if he had any ideas.  He suggested that I use try to use a tire iron as a lever, and he found a lever and helped me.  It appeared to work.

We drove away, and I soon heard a scraping sound.  No, this wouldn’t play.  I pulled over at the next safe spot and got the lever again.  I used all my strength and was able to clear it.  The screeching sound was gone.  I made it to the airport.  I told Hertz what happened and filled out the paperwork.  They also said that they would adjust the price for taking the compact.  I checked in, dropped off my checked bag, headed through security, and went to my gate, only to find my flight delayed by 20 minutes.  The pilot was running late.  I sat down and proceeded to write the first entry.  I closed as the boarding began.  Once we took off, I proceeded to write this entry, which I will now close and hopefully publish before we land.  It has been a great trip, and it truly will be the last one I take like this, at least until I start taking my family on their trips, and ain’t that a happy thought.  On that note, next stop: Hood River, Oregon for my brother’s wedding.

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